The Grand Canyon, Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim

The Grand Canyon

In the November 2009 edition of Trail Runner Magazine, author Garett Graubins’s “Bucket List” (Get Busy Living – 24 must-have experiences for the trail runner’s life list) ranks “Run the Grand Canyon” as the #1 must-do.  So when my friend Wade Repta suggested this journey as a potential running getaway several months ago, I quickly accepted the invitation.  Jackie Muir, another West Coast ultra-runner, also jumped at the chance. Thus began the planning for our Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim (R2R2R or R3) crossing of this Natural Wonder of the World.  Flights were booked, hotel reservations made, I even purchased travel books and scoured the Internet and past-issues of my running magazine collection for as much information as possible for this undertaking.  Emails were exchanged, gear lists revised and the anticipation started to build.  The more I read, the more my excitement and my anxiety grew.  In hindsight, no book or article could have sufficiently prepared me for the “grandeur” of the Grand Canyon!

“But he has a calling card.”

My stubborn resistance to owning a cell phone complicated our meeting plans in Las Vegas at the start of our adventure.  Flight delays and communication obstacles notwithstanding, Wade, Jackie and I were finally reunited at the McCarran Airport car rental garage in Sin City.  We loaded our gear into the loaned Mazda and set out on the five hour drive to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.

We were hoping to arrive earlier than we actually did in order to get our bearings, have a decent meal and maximize the amount of hours to rest and sleep before the upcoming Monumental Effort. Although it was dark by the time we arrived at the Grand Canyon National Park, we were still able to spot three very large and curious elks on the side of the highway.  We were pretty darn happy that they had not ventured out onto the road.

Once in our room we frantically prepared our backpacks with all essentials:

• Sufficient food, electrolytes, gels to fuel us over the 50 mile (80Km) distance;
• Proper clothing for all conditions…cool at the start, potentially scorching heat at the bottom and snow on the North Rim;
• Safety gear including headlamps, first aid and foot care kits, emergency blankets, anti-chaffing cream;
• A camera to capture the beauty.

“Don’t make me punch you!”

Start in the dark

Promptly at 4am, the three of us gathered for a picture at the trailhead sign and took our first steps down into the Canyon.  Not too far below we could see someone’s headlamp bobbing down ahead of us.  We caught the lone runner at the 1.5 mile restroom cabin.  This eager runner was also attempting the R3, but he was going solo!  We bid adieu to our new friend and continued down the trail ahead of him. In the first couple of hours our lights even caught the glowing eyes of a handful of deer that had evidently come out to greet us.

Down Bright Angel

The route we selected from the South Rim was the Bright Angel Trail.  There is a shorter alternate trail (The South Kaibab Trail) to the Colorado River, but Wade insisted on maximizing the total distance of our trek.  Also, Bright Angel has water access whereas the South Kaibab does not.  The Bright Angel trail corkscrewed its way down several thousand feet and we witnessed quite a stunning sunrise.  We were treated to countless other interesting photo opportunities as we ran comfortably down to the suspension bridge spanning the mighty Colorado River.  We topped up our bottles and proceeded past Phantom Ranch.  With roughly 10 miles behind us, we now started the gradual climb to the North Rim.

Crossing the Colorado River

Our next stop was at the Cottonwood Campground.  We knew that this was the last place to get water before the grueling climb to the top, but we also had to ensure that we had enough to get us back down to this point, a total of just over 13 miles, but this distance could potentially take several hours.

Last chance for water

The next 6 miles offered some of the most spectacular views imaginable.  I kept wondering to myself how could I possibly describe this beauty and vasteness?   I’m simply not that good a writer!  Hopefully the pictures will do it justice.

On this steep ascent I also realized that I had not sufficiently trained for this endeavor.  Jackie and Wade were both significantly stronger than me and I started questioning whether I was a liability to the group.  The following video clip captures my struggles as the altitude and the grinding climb began to take their tolls on me.

Supai Tunnel

Near the Suppai Tunnel we were caught and passed by our new friend whom we had met near the start. Now with less than 2 miles to reach the summit, I was really suffering.  I suggested I turn around and get a head start back down the canyon while my friends would press on to the top.  Thankfully Wade persisted that I push on and suggested that the contents of my pack be shared between him and Jackie to lighten my load.

Up, up, up...

This was the ultimate display of teamwork and unselfishness.  We had begun this expedition together and we would finish it together…as long as I felt confident enough in my ability to recover and safely make it back to the South Rim.  I would have to rely on my past experiences and call upon some mental toughness, not to mention Jackie and Wade’s assistance, to ensure I make it back safely.

At this altitude we were now trekking through several feet of packed snow.  Eight hours after we had first set foot on the trails, we finally reached the North Rim and we were greeted by two hikers from Dayton, Ohio.  These guys were also doing R2R2R, but they were saner by taking three days to accomplish the feat, camping two nights in the Canyon and allowing mule trains to carry their gear out.  On his way back down, the lone runner informed us that he had turned before reaching the top and that he would also be taking the shorter South Kaibab Trail out of the Grand Canyon.

Top of the North Rim

How much snow? We're sitting on a garbage bin!

“Step your game up!”

Notice the trail on the right...don't look down!

The descent from the North Rim was significantly more enjoyable then the ascent.  That 6 or 7 mile climb took nearly 4 hours and literally drained me.  As we ran down the narrow trail, my spirits began to rise as did my confidence.  On this return section I even noticed some sights, including a roaring waterfall, that I did not remember seeing on the way up…proof that I was really messed up on this climb.  Soon we were back at Cottonwood and the longest stretch without water was behind us.  I have a small thermometer attached to my pack.  It was now the middle of the afternoon and the mercury had climbed to nearly 90 degrees Fahrenheit.  Great!  We had a reprieve from the altitude but now had to contend with the heat.  Thankfully we were still going downhill.  Jackie ran ahead with Wade following closely, and I was again bringing up the rear.  I was still running on this section, albeit at a much slower pace.  I could see my friends far off in the distance and Wade would regularly turn and give me a wave to ensure that I was still alright.

Phantom Ranche

The second time around, there was quite the hustle and bustle at Phantom Ranch.  Many hikers only venture this far and most spend the night in cabins or tents at this location.  Food is sold here but the meals must be pre-ordered several days ahead of time.  Regardless of this, I needed to inspect the place in search of some food other than the gels and bars we were carrying.  I purchased some M&M’s and some lemonade (not necessarily the tastiest combination) in hopes this would give me an added boost.  We crossed back over the suspension bridge and now had one final yet lengthy climb back to the top. True to form, I struggled once again while climbing and my partners offered one more time to carry some of my gear.  I was both humbled and thankful.