(So it’s been nearly two months since this race, I figure it’s about time I get this report posted!)

“Remember, finishing is winning.” – Chrissy Ferguson, AT 100 Co-Race Director

I clearly wasn’t a winner in 2010 when back spasms forced me to DNF (Did Not Finish) at mile 73 of the Arkansas Traveler 100-mile run. After surviving the nightmarish ride back to the finish line in the box of the pickup truck where I laid with a couple of other runners who had suffered the same fate as me, I promised myself I would return to the Ouachita National Forest in 2011 to take care of unfinished business.

Last year during the pre-race briefing, co-RD Chrissy Ferguson shared a story about the time she dropped out at Leadville 100. She kept her race bib on her fridge as a daily reminder of her failed attempt at completing the race. Chrissy returned to Colorado the following year to successfully reach the finish line.  That same year she also eventually completed the Grand Slam of ultra running. Remarkably, her husband Stan Ferguson, also completed the Slam and the couple became the first husband and wife duo to accomplish the feat in the same year. Their story was featured in the July-August 2010 issue of Marathon & Beyond.

(Note: The Grand Slam consists of officially finishing the following four 100-milers in the same year: Western States, Vermont, Leadville, and Wasatch. The races take place in a span of just under 4 months.)

So following Chrissy’s lead, I pinned my 2010 DNF Arkansas Traveler race bib on the cork board in my office and was forced to reflect about the race practically every day over the course of the next 12 months.

Minutes before the start of the race all the runners gathered for the final instructions where Chrissy proclaimed: “If you have any questions…too bad, it’s too late”!  And the starters pistol set us off on our journey.  The first aid station is at Brown’s Creek just past the 5-mile mark. I remembered this place from last year because of it served bacon. I planned ahead and had an extra Ziploc baggie on me in order to load it up with a few extra strips and eat later on. You can never, ever have too much bacon!

At the Flatside Pinnacle aid station near the 9-mile mark, I caught up to my friend Monica Scholz who invited me to join her. For the next 7 miles the course follows the Ouachita Trail, the only single track trail on the Arkansas Traveler course. Most of the course is run on gravel and old jeep or ATV roads. Monica suggested that we take it exceptionally slow on this trail section. She felt it was the “prettiest” section of the race and said far too many people don’t enjoy it enough and go too fast this early in the race. Dozens of runners passed us easily but Monica believed that we would catch them later in the race. Who was I to argue? This was after all Monica’s 113th race of 100-miles (or longer) and her 9th go-round here in Arkansas.

We chatted and chatted, zipped in and out of the aid stations and put miles and time behind us. In fact, the first time I remember even looking at my watch we were already nearly 6 hours into the race. Every year over 200 hundred volunteers help make the Arkansas Traveler a memorable experience. Many of the aid stations even have themes, complete with decorations and costumes. At 39 miles, this year the Club Flamingo aid station was transformed into a replica of a M.A.S.H. set. Many volunteers were wearing army fatigues and there was even the ugliest (and hairiest) Major Margaret “Hot Lips” Houlihan I’ve ever seen. Clad in a tight white nurse’s dress and wearing red lipstick was none other than aid station captain Paul “PT” Turner. This guy is hilarious and it is the second year in a row I see him in a dress. This disturbing image only further encouraged us be in and out of that station quickly.

RD's with PT and AT100 champs

Smith Mountain at 43 miles was a 70’s party and you could hear the music blaring from far away and there was a luau and invitations to get “leied” by volunteers in grass skirts at B.M. Road three miles later. Before we knew it, we had reached Powerline (48.2 miles) and the first medical weigh in checkpoint. We both had drop bags here so we elected to grab a dry long-sleeve shirt and our flashlights because it would be dark by the time we get back to this point on our return trip. At just under three minutes, this was our longest aid station stop of the entire race. The next time I looked at my watch was at the 50-mile mark. The first half of the race took us 12 hours and 16 minutes. Monica predicted a 26-hour finishing time for us.

I’ve known Monica for nearly ten years, joined her and others at countless “fun runs” she has hosted with Phil, captained an aid station with her father Dieter at the Sulphur Springs many times, yet these hours together on the AT100 course allowed me to get to know her even better. Not only is Monica a remarkable runner, she is a fascinating person in many aspects and has accomplished many other incredible athletic feats from cycling to scuba diving to sailing. On top of it all, she has many interesting courtroom stories as she is an accomplished lawyer. Monica, you should really write a book!

About an hour after the turnaround we finally crossed Phil. On very little training, Phil was attempting to finish his 5th AT100. In 2010 Phil completed seven 100-milers and crewed/paced Monica at several others. He is one tough dude! The miles kept passing by and the thought of not finishing never once occurred to me. I once heard an ultra runner say: “the key to running a 100-miler is not to let the highs get too high, nor the lows get too low”. We kept an even keel and plugged along. I especially did not want to spend much time at Smith Mountain at mile 73. This was where my race ended last year and the U-Haul trailer which I had lied down in was once again parked there.

We got to see a second sunrise (I’ve never finished a 100-miler in the dark yet!) and shortly after that Monica picked up the pace quite a bit. She wanted to finish in enough time to allow her to drive back to her hotel room, take a shower and return to see Phil finish. My swollen and blistered feet couldn’t keep up and Monica faded out of view. As much as I enjoyed Monica’s company for all those miles, I also enjoyed my time alone. It allowed me to reflect on the magnitude of this Monumental Effort. These events really force you to dig deep both mentally and physically. Monica helped keep the mood pleasant and the feet moving. Not a single runner passed us from the turn-around at mile 58 to the finish, yet we managed to leapfrog a few, including one poor guy who sat motionless in the middle of the road for nearly three hours with less than a mile to go as his crew and pacers waited patiently for him to find the strength to get up and slowly saunter to the finish.  He eventually got there to much applause!

AT100 finish line

I had not completed a 100-miler in over two years and I was starting to wonder whether I would ever be successful at running this distance again. As I ran as hard as I possibly could down one last hill and up another one along the final mile, I was filled with joy and relief. I hollered a few (very loud) “whoo-hooos”, along with many fist pumps as I crossed the finish line. Awaiting the runners and offering handshakes, hugs and congratulations were Chrissy and Stan. I can honestly say that I had never felt happier upon completing a race before.

During the entire run I carried with me the DNF bib from 2010. At the awards presentation I gave it to Chrissy as she handed me my finisher’s buckle. I told her I never wanted to see that bib again and she promptly destroyed it. With my confidence in running 100-milers restored, this week I submitted my application to the Western States Endurance Run lottery. The draw will be held on December 10th. Fingers are crossed!

Gotta run,

Vince

(Photos in this post are from: www.endurance buzz.com…check out this excellent site)

My future events: JFK 50-miler, November 19th; Honolulu Marathon, December 11th.

« The race really only has one hill. » – Teresa Taylor, Barr Camp caretaker and winner of the inaugural Sulphur Springs 100-miler in 2001

Pre-race:   A different kind of “Mile-High” club

Prior to the 2011 Pikes Peak Marathon, the last time I was outdoors at 14,000 feet above sea level I had just jumped out of a perfectly good airplane high above Australia’s Gold Coast.  Although nothing compares to the adrenaline rush of skydiving, this race’s unique qualities make it a must-do for marathoners and trail enthusiasts alike.

Freefalling Down Under

Billed as “America’s Ultimate Challenge” the iconic Pikes Peak Marathon is North America’s third oldest marathon and the very first to officially allow women.  A race steeped in history and run on a challenging one-of-a-kind mountainous course in a State I had yet to visit…I just had to check this out!

Registration for Pikes Peak opens some five months before the race and usually fills up pretty fast.  Although the qualifying standards aren’t unreasonably tough, race organizers are extremely particular about how the online registration form is completed.  In other words, you cannot use a qualifying time that is faster or slower than what is required for the start wave you are registering for.  If you accidently submit the wrong time, your application will be denied.

I was vacationing in the Dominican Republic on the day that registration opened.  I had set my iPad alarm to remind me to get online in time.  Unfortunately, I had miscalculated the time zone difference and when I logged onto the site what I thought was a few minutes early turned out to be almost an hour late.  I was surprised to see that the first wave (410 spots for runners with a qualifying time of 3:45 or faster) had already been filled and that the second wave (430 spots for runners with a qualifying time of 3:45 – 5:30) only had a handful of vacant spots remaining.  Luckily I had qualifying times for both waves, so I promptly found the link to the results for a marathon I had completed slower than 3:45 and submitted my application just under the wire.  Now all I had left to do was train!

Being a “flatlander” presents many challenges for runners looking to run alpine races.  I tried to include as many hills as possible in my training but nothing in Southern Ontario is remotely close to the climbing I’d be doing in Colorado.  Perennial Pikes Peak Marathonwinner Matt Carpenter suggests that runners who don’t have access to mountains should do some long runs (up to four hours) on a treadmill set at the highest incline.  I tried this tactic and could only manage a 2-hour uphill treadmill jaunt before my calves felt like they were about to explode. 

Climbing at Creemore

My spring race schedule included nearby events that featured hilly courses like the Creemore Vertical and Limberlost  Challenges from the Ontario Ultra Series.  Furthermore, the new course design at Mohican 50-miler turned out to be excellent preparation for Pikes Peak.  Although not necessarily mountainous, the terrain of Central Ohio offers endless miles of technical trails and a relentless number of hills.  The early summer heat and humidity only contributed to making that race a Monumental Effort of its own!

I arrived at the Denver airport on the Tuesday before the race.  I spent the first day and night sightseeing areas north of Denver (lunch in Boulder, dinner in Estes Park, and a tour of The Stanley Hotel – Stephen King’s inspiration for The Shining) before heading back south towards Manitou Springs and the site of the race.  I had only been in the Rocky Mountain State for approximately 24-hours when I took the cog railway to the summit of Pikes Peak.  Although it was a bit pricey, the ride provided some fantastic vistas and our guide delivered a witty commentary about flora and fauna found on “America’s Mountain”.  At the top I snapped a few pictures and studied the view of the Barr Trail that zigzags its way down the mountain, the route I would be ascending on race day.  A few minutes later, the thin air (and perhaps a bit of anxiety) made me feel a bit light-headed and I even experienced some shortness of breath.  So I had to seek out a quiet corner in the restaurant to sit down and have something to eat and drink to gather myself.  If this was any indication of how I might react to the altitude during the race, I was in serious trouble.

Summit sign

The view from the summit

Part of my acclimatization plan was to spend some time on the mountain.  So on Thursday morning with my backpack loaded with gear and enough water for the next two days, I hiked the first six miles of the race course up to Barr Camp which sits at above 10,000 feet of elevation.  I had also booked a bunk at the camp where I would spend the night. 

My bunk at Barr Camp

Over the past few months I had read as much literature (and watched many videos) that I could about the Pikes Peak Marathon but hopefully this hike would not only help me get accustomed to the thin air, it would permit me to actually see the trail before the big day.  I resisted the urge to run and simply enjoyed the scenery.  I even took a couple of extended breaks during which I would pull out my copy of Harald Fricker’s book about the race to reread the chapter containing the detailed course description.  This turned out to be extremely valuable as it helped me plan my strategy for race day. 

I dropped off some of my gear at Barr Camp to lighten my load and continued my hike for an additional three miles (one more hour and just under 2,000 feet of climb) to A-Frame.  Now I had seen three quarters of the course.  I turned around here as I figured that the last section above the tree line would be a death march regardless if I had seen it or not before race day!  Besides, it was almost dinner time and I was famished. 

A-Frame

The staff at Barr Camp treated its patrons to a hearty spaghetti feast with some of the best garlic bread I have ever had.  After dinner about a half-dozen of us (including my new friends, the Andresen family from the Upper Peninsula region of Michigan) hung out in the cozy main cabin and exchanged running stories before hitting the pillow relatively early. 

Hanging out at Barr Camp

The next morning following another delicious meal (this one a scrumptious pancake breakfast) I gathered my belongings and hiked back down the mountain.  On my return trip I crossed dozens of volunteers who were making the trek to their respective spots on the mountain to set up an aid station and a campsite where they would be spending the next couple of days looking after runners.  I thanked many of them in advance. 

Like most marathons, Pikes Peak offered a race expo with its share of swag and discounted running apparel.  Here I had the pleasure of meeting ultra-running legend Marshall Ulrich who was promoting his book.  We had a short chat; I bought his book (hopefully a review will appear on M.E. at some point) and I decided not to linger at the expo too long.  I find there is too much nervous energy at these things which only heightens my own nervousness.  So I busted outta there!

Race weekend also features The Pikes Peak Ascent which takes place on the Saturday.  These runners race to the top of the mountain (a half-marathon) and are shuttled back down.  Pikes Veterans, those who have successfully completed the marathon in previous years, can also register for the “Double”…run the Ascent on Saturday followed by the Marathon on Sunday!  Absolute silliness!

Since parking would be limited due to the large number of Ascent participants, I opted to stay away on Saturday too.  All the excitement would be at the finish line on the summit anyway and I had absolutely no desire to spend the day up there!  So I ventured to an outlet mall only to be reminded of how much I hate shopping.  So back to my hotel room I went for a relaxing evening and another early bedtime.

The race:  The ants go marching one by one, hurrah, hurrah…

Before start

Although the registration has two different qualifying standards, all runners in the marathon depart at the same time.  The Ascent participants however have a staggered start for the two waves.  Minutes before the start, I picked a spot in about the middle of the pack and patiently waited for the sound of the start gun.  The race begins and ends in the quaint tourist town of Manitou Springs.  From where we were standing, runners can’t yet see the top of Pikes Peak.  The first sight of the summit will come at approximately the 3-mile mark.

Pikes Peak summit way off in the distance

3 miles up, Manitou Springs down below

Equipped with a better knowledge of the course thanks to my hike a couple of days ago, I dissected the ascent portion of the race into four 3-mile sections.  The first section has a short yet very steep road section followed by the first series of switchbacks (known as the W’s) on the Barr Trail.  In insight, I wish I had begun the race slightly closer to the front because there was a lot of congestion on this section.  Many race reports cautioned on starting conservatively, so the heavy traffic forced me to start slow, but I think I could have benefited from not being stuck in the conga line for so long.  However, I knew that the second 3-mile section wasn’t quite as steep as the W’s, had wider trails and even a few short down hills.  I did most of my passing on this section and before I knew it I had arrived at Barr Camp and approximately at the midway point of the climb.

The once quiet and serene oasis in the mountain was now quite the hustle and bustle of excitement.  The loudest cheerleader on the course was none other than Teresa, the ever-perky Barr Camp attendant.  Her voice was course, evidently from having cheered for all the Ascent participants the day before, yet she was out there again, manning the HAM radio and encouraging every single marathoner.  I topped off my water bottle, grabbed a handful of pretzels and continued on my way.

The third 3-mile section features the most technical part of the trail and another series of switchbacks.  These ones weren’t quite as steep as the W’s, but they were numerous and long.  Apparently there is a total of 15 of them, but I got confused when I tried to keep count.  It had taken me an hour to hike this section on Thursday, so I knew I could get to A-Frame a bit faster today.  It was on this section that you start passing runners who had evidently gone out too fast and were now suffering…and they were still a long way from the top.

Also on this section I got to see the lead runners bombing their way back down the mountain.  I still had a little over 4-miles to the summit but these amazing athletes were already cruising effortlessly towards the finish.  Doing some quick math I realized that they would be done the race before I even reached the summit.  Incredible!

Slow march above tree line

With A-Frame now behind me, I only had 3-miles before the turnaround.  But this section was unchartered territory for me.  The race’s website sums it up the best:  “There’s a reason trees don’t bother growing above 12,000′ on Pikes Peak. They can’t!  Makes one wonder if trees are smarter than runners.  Above treeline most runners take 30 minutes or more, some much more, just to cover a mile. What little air remains can’t satisfy the endless stream of zombies hoping only to survive their next step. It’s a death march right out of a scene from Dawn of the Dead. Adding insult to injury it might start to snow! Most runners are reduced to a slow march in the thin air.”

Surprisingly, I still felt pretty good on the final climb.  Sure I was sucking a bit of air, my hands were sore and swollen and my mind a little foggy, but I maintained a slow and steady pace.  I was still passing people, but now more and more runners were on their return and they get the right-of-way on the trail, so I was forced to stop often and allow down-bound runners to get by.

Happy to reach summit

I reached the top of Pikes Peak Mountain in 4:17:35.  Many of the reports that I had read suggested that the average runner should take their marathon time, add thirty minutes, and that will give a rough approximation of your ascent time.  Depending on the event, its course conditions and my training, my marathon times over the past couple of years has ranged between 3:30 and 4:20, so this formula seemed to be pretty accurate.

I did not waste any time refueling at the turnaround aid station.  There were a lot of spectators up there with friends and family meeting their runners, but I simply crossed the timing mat and headed out.  I had eaten a gel just before reaching the summit and I judged that I had enough water in my bottle to get me to the next aid station.  It was literally all downhill from here! 

Heading downhill

The 3-miles back to A-Frame zoomed by.  I was glad to be running and even happier that I wasn’t one of the poor souls still trekking upwards.  I even passed one runner who had decided to take a nap behind a rock.  I was extremely cautious on the technical trail to Barr Camp and as I approach that aid station I could still hear Teresa’s cheers.  Teresa informed me that she had gotten the news that her husband Neal had successfully completed Leadville-100 in a sub-24-hour time.  His best time on that course in 11 finishes!  Congratulations Neal!

I was having fun and running at a good pace.  I calculated that I had passed nearly 40 runners on the downhill portion.  Usually I’m the one being passed this late in a race.  As advertised, the unpredictable weather did not disappoint.  The sky clouded over and we got an interesting mix of rain, wind, and hail which forced me to pull on the jacket I was carrying in pack. I can’t imagine how brutal this weather must have been higher up on the mountain.  I believe some runners were also forced to turnaround before reaching the top because the conditions had gotten too dangerous…an unfortunate disqualification for them.

One mile to go!

Since 1998, the average finishing time for the Pikes Peak Marathon has been over 7 hours (7:10:52 for this year’s race).  With only a couple of miles to go, I realized that I could finish well under this time.  Even though the temperature had dropped and a slight drizzle was still falling, hundreds of enthusiastic fans lined the streets of Manitou Springs along the final mile of the course.  I crossed the finish line in 6:42:38. 

(Note:  Matt Carpenter won his 12^thPPM in a time of 3:48:08, nearly three hours ahead of me and he was this year’s only sub 4-hour finisher.  Matt also holds the mind-boggling course record of 3:16:39!)

Matt Carpenter, King of the Mountain

Post race:  Mr. Short-Term Memory

On this trip I was reminded of all the cool running events that happen in Colorado each year.  On this same weekend and only a few hours away, the Leadville 100-miler is also held.  Several years ago, the aforementioned M. Ulrich ran Leadville in under 24-hours, drove three hours to Manitou Springs in time to run the Pikes Peak Marathon.  Wowsers!  The Gore-Tex TransRockies stage race also takes place the week following Pikes Peak and this year another important sporting event that was happening in Colorado Springs on Monday was Stage 1 of the USA Pro Cycling Challenge.  I had already booked a room in Denver and was planning on seeing a baseball game at Coors Field, so I headed out of town bright and early Monday morning.  Later that day as I read the sports section of the Denver Post I realized that the top three finishers of the 2011 Tour de France (Cadel Evans, Andy Schleck & brother Frank) were all participating in this cycling event.  I guess I missed a once in a lifetime opportunity to see some of the best endurance athletes in the World in action.  Damn!

During my conversations with some Pikes Peak Veterans I was warned that the race has a funny way of calling runners back to the mountain year after year.  My intention was to run the race, check Colorado off my 50-States list, and start planning my next adventure.  Now that this race experience has simmered in my memory for almost a month, not only am I considering returning to Pikes Peak Marathon next summer, but the idea of doing “The Double” has also crept up in my mind.  What is wrong with me?

Monumental Effort has been quiet over the past few months as our respective busy lives have gotten in the way of our creativity.  We apologize for our silence.  Hopefully we will produce more material in the near future.  Better yet, if you have an inspiring story of determination and perseverance that you would like to share, please do so by clicking the “Submit your story” tab at the top of the page.  You can also comment below on this or any other post.

My next challenge:  Redemption at Arkansas Traveler 100…please stay tuned!

Gotta run,

Vince

« When your mind starts to wander, just return your focus to your breath. » André Grandbois, yoga instructor.

Exactly one year after doing the Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim double-crossing of the Grand Canyon, two-thirds of the team reunited in Snoqualmie, Washington to run the Mt. Si Ultra. Due to injury, Wade was unable to join us, but Jackie was there, along with two other Vancouverites, Ryne Melcher and Kristin Ohm-Pedersen. Ryne (aka Rune) has run and won this event the past couple of years and holds a very impressive course record of 5:54:14 for 50-miles. He would not be lowering his time this year as a freak injury to his ribs (reportedly hurt while playing Wii tennis) forced him to run the shorter 50K event. Kristin was also entered in the 50K run whereas Jackie and I would test our mettle in the 50-miler.

I had never visited the Seattle area before so I was excited to run this race, check Washington off my 50-States list, and visit this area of the Puget Sound.

Sightseeing in Seattle

The race starts and finishes in the small town of Snoqualmie which rests in the heart of the Cascade Mountain Range about 25-miles east of Seattle. Surrounded by the snow capped Isaaquah Alps, 50-mile runners began their journey from a local elementary school promptly at 6:00AM. 50K runners would start two and a half hours later.

Mt. Si Ultra also offers a 59-mile relay option. There are 10 relay legs and runners on each team must run at least 2 sections. Seeing as there were nearly one hundred teams, this added greatly to the overall atmosphere of the run. Relay exchange points along the course had large boisterous crowds of spectators and runners awaiting their teammates. (Note: Last year, only one team had a faster time than Rune…wowsers!)

Relay exchange

The early miles of the race run through the quaint town before entering the trails. The race’s website describes the trails as “old railroad grade (which) offers a gentle elevation and is generally wide with some crushed rock, but usually is packed dirt and grass.” Moss-covered hemlock trees lined the trails and runners were also treated to spectacular views of many snow-capped mountains, ebbing waterfalls, and blissful rivers and streams.

Shortly after passing the first aid-station less than an hour into the race, the clouds opened up and the rain persisted for most of the day. This is after all the Pacific Northwest!

The race’s name is a bit deceiving since runners don’t actually run up Mt. Si. We actually only run past it (and sort of around it) on the different out-and-back sections. There was however one long and gradual uphill section between miles 25 and 36. What goes up must come down. After the turnaround, I was delighted to let gravity do its work and pull me back down to the final 4-mile flat section to the finish line.

On the early morning drive to the start of the race I had told Jackie that I felt my training had been adequate to grind through to the finish of the race, but I wasn’t sure if my speed was quite where I would like it to be. Although the rain soaked us to the core, I wasn’t about to let it dampen (pun intended) my spirit. Whenever I started thinking negatively, I tried to remind myself to practice what my yoga instructor had been preaching during his recent classes (see quote above). Also, to complement this meditative exercise, I spent most of the day singing (often out loud and to myself) and/or whistling my new favourite song, “Pumped Up Kicks” by Foster The People.

“…better run, better run, out run my gun…”

So on this day I didn’t allow my lows to get too low or my highs too high. I took in the scenery and tried to maintain an even pace. In the end, I missed lowering my 50-mile personal best time by a mere 41 seconds. But that’s OK! It’s way too early in the season for PR’s!

As for the rest of the Canadian contingent, Ryne paced Kristin to her very first ultra win in a time of 4:37:12. Jackie cruised to a second place finish (5th overall) in 7:40:12 and lowered her 50-mile PR by over 90 minutes! We joked that the next time she takes an hour and a half off her time she’ll still be shy of Ann Trason’s World Record!

Kristin wins her fist ultra...more to come!

Jackie cruises to 2nd place finish

Two weeks after Mt. Si Ultra, I toed the line at the Jerseyville 100. This low-key “Fat Ass” event is hosted by Monica Scholz, Phil McColl and some of their friends and family. Eleven runners started and my intention was to run 50K and assess whether or not I’d push to 50-miles. Once again, the race began in the rain. I even ran the first 5K wearing an ugly yellow rain poncho. Although the rain didn’t last that long, the winds persisted throughout my run. After 50K I lost interest and packed it in. I tried to use the same tactics that kept the negative thoughts away in Snoqualmie, but this time to no avail. Someone once told me: “If you want to run 50-miles, you’ve got to WANT to run 50-miles!” The desire was simply not there on this particular day.

I’ve entered two races this month and both were wet ones. I guess if you run enough races, you are bound to get inclement weather. At this time of year in the past, I have had this misfortune at an extremely nasty Miwok 100K in 2009 and another slip-sliding muddy affair at Bull Run Run in 2006. But this April, with the exception of just a couple of days, I feel as though it has rained all month long. The April showers have been Monumental!

Bolinas Ridge aid station at Miwok 2009

How do you stay motivated on rainy days? Can you help me feel like Gene Kelly in this type of weather?  Please leave us a comment below.

Gotta run,

Vince

“Only travel in an emergency.  If you must travel, keep an extra flashlight, food and water in your vehicle in case you become stranded.” – The Weather Network’s forecast for Jackson, Mississippi on January 8^th, 2011

The 50 States Marathon Club regularly presents to its members dates of back-to-back marathons.  These “Seeing Double” dates allow runners to knock off two marathons in one weekend, often in neighboring states.  If the marathons are within a certain driving distance, this permits would-be registrants to cut down on their traveling expenses while checking a couple of states off their list.  January offered the Mississippi Blues Marathon (Jackson, MS) and the First Light Marathon (Mobile, AL) on consecutive days.  Organizers of both races partnered and were offering a rebate on the entry fees and special awards to finishers of both events.  As an early gauge of my fitness level, and to kick-start my 2011 racing schedule, I eagerly signed up.

I wasn’t expecting to run any personal bests, but I was curious to see if I could indeed run two marathons in one weekend.  When I arrived in Jackson, I drove directly to the race expo to check in for the race.  This is a small marathon with approximately two thousand total runners entered in the three events: marathon, half-marathon, marathon relay.  The expo was very modest, but I did raid a booth that was selling Nip Guards.  Local running specialty stores don’t seem to be carrying this product anymore, so I loaded up and now have a year’s supply to protect my overly sensitive nipples!  For a small event, I was pleasantly surprised at the race swag in the gift bag: T-shirt, CD of blues music, Elvis sunglasses complete with sideburns (the marathon was celebrating what would have been the King’s 76th birthday), a harmonica emblazoned with the race logo and many product samples were all included in a nylon shoe bag/backpack.

Elvince has left the building

The host hotel was about 300 yards from the start/finish area, allowing runners to linger in their rooms until mere minutes before the start.  As I prepared for marathon #1 of the weekend, my television was on the Weather Network and forecasters were suggesting that a major winter blast was heading towards the area.  Since the storm front was still about a half day away, runners would enjoy sunny conditions, a bit of wind, and temperatures in the low teens (or low 50’s on the Fahrenheit scale).

Jackson, The City with Soul, is the State Capitol and largest city in Mississippi.  This city is named after the 7^th President of the United States, Andrew Jackson, and has a fascinating history.  Native Choctaw roots, settlement by French-Canadian traders, civil war battles and civil rights movements helped shape this city.  During the run, what I found glaringly obvious was the disparity between economic classes.  I suppose this is common in many cities, but as we ran through different sections of Jackson, I was amazed that only a few miles separated some beautiful mansions on large properties and the boarded-up and dilapidated homes literally on the other side of the tracks.  Although the city is in a period of rejuvenation and growth, Jackson still ranks as the 23^rd most dangerous city in the U.S.

The Capitol in Jackson, Mississippi

Like most runners, I always make a point to thank the volunteers during a race.  Anyone who has ever race-directed will agree that without the help of these people, races would simply be impossible to organize.  What I found extremely amazing at the Mississippi Blues Marathon was the fact that the volunteers were the ones thanking the runners.  In all the races I have run over the years, I don’t ever recall volunteers thanking me, the runner!  Even police officers directing traffic along the course were heard saying:  “Thanks runners for coming out to our race.”  I guess the citizens of Jackson recognize the importance of the tourism dollars that the marathon generates for their city.

The course itself was one of the hilliest road marathons I have run.  There were no major climbs but there weren’t many flat sections either.  It’s all good since the rolling terrain forced me to walk some sections and save energy for tomorrow’s marathon…which I was still unsure of.  I still had a few hours to debate whether it was wise to make the four hour drive to Mobile after the race, run 26.2 miles in miserable weather on Sunday, then drive back to Jackson, potentially in a storm, that evening.  During the race I questioned a couple of locals about the forecast and most agreed that with any wintry mix, people down there panic and everything shuts down.

In addition to the super-friendly aid station attendants, marching bands and blues ensembles entertained the runners along the course.  At the 17-mile point, one particular blues band was performing and the lyrics that they sang as I ran by were:  “Oh Lord, you’ve got to get back home again”.  Were they trying to tell me something?  Of the dozens of bands out there, these are the only lyrics that stuck in my head.  Was this a sign?

I finished the race in a leisurely time of 4:16:38 (over 30 minutes slower than my time at the Hamilton marathon two months earlier) and received one of the biggest medals I’ve ever seen.  That sucker must weigh almost 2 pounds! After a much deserved shower, I checked out of my hotel and headed straight to the airport to see if I could catch an earlier flight.  I stopped at a gas station and even the attendant said:  “You ain’t from around here, right?  You headin’ out of town before the storm hits?” I took this as another sign that I should forgo the second marathon.  As luck would have it, I was able to board an earlier flight that was scheduled to depart in less than an hour.  I managed to save on my rental car because I was returning it 3 days earlier than anticipated; I cancelled my hotel reservation in Mobile and boarded the plane to Atlanta.  I was back at home, safe and sound, shortly after 10PM Saturday night.  As it turns out, my original Monday flight out of Mississippi and its connection in Atlanta were both cancelled.  I would have been stranded at the Harstfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, along with thousands of other travelers, for who knows how long!

On the journey back home, I decided that since I had signed up for two marathons but had only run one, I still had some running to do.  So to complete what I set out to do, I headed to the gym on Sunday morning to run marathon #2.  You read that correctly…the gym!  I had no desire to battle the elements outside and didn’t know any measured 42.2K (26.2 miles) route near my house, so I chose to run the distance on a treadmill.  I had run three hours on the treadmill in the past, but this was going to be the farthest I’ve ever run on one of these machines.

I went through my regular pre-race ritual at home, prepared a small bag of gels and electrolyte drinks, lubed certain areas of the body, got dressed and was out the door.  I never run with an iPod outdoors, but I knew I would certainly be in need of some distractions today.  At the gym, I took the treadmill placed directly in front of the big screen TV, set it to TSN and hit the START button.  My plan was to take a short break after every 5-mile section.  The short break would allow me to replenish my bottle and take a gel.  I tried to limit my break to less than 2 minutes.

The first five miles were excruciatingly tough.  I kept asking myself what was it I was trying to prove, but each 5-mile section after that kept getting faster and I was feeling stronger.  I rocked out to some 80’s metal music and played a little game to keep my mind occupied by altering the speed setting on the treadmill every five minutes.  As I ran, I got to watch/read “The Sports Reporters”, the first half of the Raptors game and the trailer for the Vince Vaughn and Kevin James “The Dilemma” way too many times!  Consequently, I have no desire to see that movie now!  The entire experience wasn’t as mind-numbing as I thought, and I finished my second marathon of the weekend in 4:26:27, a mere 10 minutes slower than the previous day’s result.  I didn’t get a finisher’s medal and there are no official results for this endeavor.  The weather didn’t permit me to run consecutive marathons in different states, but I improvised and did manage to run two marathons in one weekend.  A fellow 50-states club member is planning a “triple” on Labor Day weekend.  He claims:  three marathons, three states, one hotel….stay tuned!

Gotta run,

Vince

«You know, some people are just crazy! »  Custom’s officer at the Queenston-Lewiston Bridge upon hearing my reasons for travelling to the U.S.

In a year during which Monica Scholz made running 100-milers look easy, I failed to complete a race of this daunting distance.  Back in the spring I entered the Jerseyville 100.  I honestly had the intention of running 50-miles and then evaluate whether or not I would push on any further.  Well, I only made it to 50K, went home, had a shower, some pizza and a nap.  The guilt of dropping out so early got to me, so I was back on the course some eight hours later to run a couple more loops and encourage the other runners.  In May I signed up for the Sulphur Springs 100, but this time the heat wore me out, so I shut’er down at the midway mark and headed straight to the beer store.  0 for 2.

On October 2^nd I toed the line of the Arkansas Traveler 100.  I had been looking forward to this race for several months and felt confident in my ability to finish, but unfortunately severe back spasms ended my quest at mile 73.

My most recent unsuccessful 100-mile attempt was at the Bartram 100’s in Milledgeville, Georgia on December 11^th.  During the pre-race briefing the race director explained the 100K option.  The course was a 5.56-mile loop through the forest.  Runners in the 100-mile event were to complete 18 loops.  If you chose the 100K option, you had to complete “only” 11 loops plus a little out-and-back spur after that final lap.  I realized early in the race that my training had been insufficient over the course of the past two months and 100-mile finish would elude me once again.  I persevered through the 100K and once back in my hotel room I managed to book an earlier flight home.  The rain started to fall shortly after midnight and when I left for the early drive to airport the next morning, the temperature had dropped significantly, the bitter winds had picked up, and the rain continued to fall.  I was happy that I wasn’t still out on the course!

To date I have completed a total of six 100-milers…in twelve attempts.  HALF!  What the heck!  That’s absolutely brutal!  I’m a high school guidance counselor, so I know that a grade of 50% is usually the sign of a lack of effort by the student or a generous gift from the teacher.  If I was a major league baseball player with a .500 average, I’d be poised to shatter Ted Williams’ long-standing batting average record.  If I was an NBA star with a 50% shooting percentage from the field, I’d probably be leading the league in scoring.  But as an ultra-runner, this track record is simply pathetic.

A wise ultra runner once told me:  “If you want to run a hundred miles, you’ve got to WANT to run a hundred miles”.  Looking back on my feeble performances of 2010, it is apparent that I really didn’t WANT to finish any of these races that badly.  As I was completing my 11^th and final lap at Bartram, a fellow Canadian runner suggested that I still had some seventeen hours to complete the remaining 7 loops (or 40-miles) and that I could walk that distance backwards and still have time under the cutoff.  He was probably right in that I had enough time, but there was no way in hell that I was walking that much.  Proof that I didn’t want it bad enough.

All was not lost on this trip though.  I did manage to lower my 100K PR by over an hour.  Also, with an official 100K time to my credit, I am able to cross Georgia off my list of states where I’ve run a marathon or farther.  Finally, I returned home safely before the snow storms and all the ensuing flight cancellations.  My original flight was cancelled, so who knows when I would have gotten home with my $20 case of duty free beer.

Despite not having completed a 100-miler this year, I have had some memorable runs in 2010.  Most notably are the Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim adventure, the Yukon River Trail Marathon, and being able to pace my friend and co-blogger Bill through his first marathon.  It has now been over fourteen months (and counting) since my last 100-mile finish at the Iroquois 100.  In order to end this drought and be more successful at this distance, I really need to train harder in 2011 or stop signing up for these things altogether.  I have some interesting events planned for next year and hopefully one of the reports on M.E. will be about a 100-mile finish.

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Gotta run,

Vince

Note: Pictures are courtesy of the Bartram Winter Trail Runs 2009. ..same course, different race.

“There are strange things done in the midnight sun
By the men who moil for gold
The Arctic trails have their secret tales
That would make your blood run cold.”

The Cremation of Sam McGee by Robert Service

Seeing as my wife was travelling to India to visit her daughter, I decided to find a unique race in an exciting locale to run while she was away.  In a recent issue of Canadian Running magazine, Derrick Spafford wrote a piece on Canada’s Top 10 Must-Do Trail Races.  One race in particular that caught my eye was the Yukon River Trail Marathon.  In the article Spafford states:  “While you certainly won’t run your fastest marathon time on this course thanks to the elevation change and technical trail surface, you will be treated to the sheer beauty and joy of trail running in Whitehorse.”

Another article that I came across in my research was Erin Sheard’s “The True North Strong and Free and Fast: The Great Canadian Marathon Guide in iRun Magazine.  Here the author lists the YRTM as the “Best off-roading” marathon and writes: “(the race) is run on tricky terrain with drop-offs, quick turns, and narrow trails. The route is devilishly designed so that each upcoming leg is harder than the previous. In the final leg awaits Heart Break and Pee Wee hill. Extreme caution is advised—the glorious scenery is tempting, but keep your eyes on the trail”.

It appeared I had found my next running destination!

Flights were booked, hotel reservations made and I eagerly awaited my trip north of 60.  This adventure began with a short stopover to visit some friends in Vancouver.  I met Dom for an hour run along the seawall on Thursday afternoon.  Later we joined Wade and one of their friends for some sailing in English Bay.  Any sane runner would have called it a night in order to rest for the upcoming race and try to beat the jet lag.  However, our night out on the town continued as we met Jackie (my other fellow Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim adventurer), Gary Robbins (fresh off his top-10 performance at Western States and gearing up for his speed record attempt of the WCT) and others at a lounge where DJ Ecos (aka Dom) was spinning.  Long story short, the 7AM wake up came pretty darn fast.

The start of the race was conveniently about 500 meters from my hotel.  Some fifty runners gathered at Shipyards Park for the marathon start at 8:30AM.   More than thirty marathon relay teams of four runners departed at 9:15AM and nearly 150 other competitors were slated to run the half-marathon which started at 10:00AM.  Weather in Whitehorse was uncharacteristically warm as the start signal was given following some last-minute instructions by the Race Director.  “If you encounter a bear, be cautious” he warned!  I’m still not sure what “be cautious” means!

Russell, Amie and Vince pre-race

Runners trotted through town on the River Trail (a paved path) for a couple of kilometers towards the more rugged Millennium Trail.  In one nearby wooded area it was evident that a colony of beavers lived in the vicinity.  You can see that the rodents had been busy chewing down trees near the Robert Service campground.  After passing the Whitehorse Rapids Plant and several moored float-planes, runners crossed The Miles Canyon suspension bridge and headed up towards the top of the escarpment. 

Although I was running alone, the scenery at the summit of the first major climb forced a loud “WOW!” out of me.  The view of the Yukon River down below was stunning.  The water of the “great river” appeared so clear and refreshing as it snaked its way off into the distance.

The next section ran through what is called Canyon City, rolling trails along the river.  The race website suggests: “EXTREME CAUTION should be used as there are some steep drop offs to the river. Keep your eyes on the terrain, not the scenery.” After a long and steep downhill, runners arrive at Chadburn Lake aid-station and roughly the mid-way mark of the race.

As mentioned in iRun Magazine, the next two segments of the race would turn out to be more difficult than the previous two.  Leg three is characterized by technical trails which undulate through wooded areas and around small lakes.  At the top of one of the biggest hills on the course, a makeshift aid-station was there to offer runners some fluids.  The two volunteers at this spot must carry the water to this point on mountain bikes.  Certainly a Monumental Effort in itself!

The heat and constant up and downs began to wear me out at this point and I found myself taking much longer walking breaks than anticipated.  However, I knew I wasn’t in the Yukon to set personal records so I resolved to maintain forward progress and enjoy the tranquility and hopefully no bear encounters.  Finally I reached the last aid-station which happens to also be the first one on the course at the Miles Canyon Bridge. 

This time runners head north rather than retrace their steps from the first leg.  The trail skirts Schwatka Lakes and features Pee Wee Hill.  When I arrived at this hill I was a bit discouraged as the climb was steep, sandy and seemed endless.  A couple of spectators at the foot of the hill offered some encouragement as I slowly plodded uphill.  What goes up must come down.  After finally reaching the top, the trail follows a series of steep switchbacks down to the final aid-station back at the Rapids Dam.  With roughly five kilometers to go, I resolved to run as much of this section as possible. 

A large eagle’s nest atop a tree along the path towards town had attracted several tourists who eagerly took pictures of two huge Bald Eagles resting there.  A few hundred yards further down the route SS Klondike permanently rests.  This is a tribute to the era of riverboat transportation which serviced Whitehorse before roads had been constructed to the capital. 

With less than two kilometers to go, it was unclear which way the course went.  I suppose to the local runners this junction is a no-brainer, but myself and a half-marathoner were stopped and debating which way to go.  “I would hate to go off course in the last 2K” said the runner from Abbotsford.  Luckily someone who had been watching the runners come in saw us standing there looking confused and pointed us in the right direction.

I crossed the finish line in a lackluster time of 4:34:07, but as Spafford warned, personal bests are not likely on this course.  The post-race meal of (my favorite) meat-lovers pizza was a welcome treat.  A lot of runners, including me, also took a refreshing dip in the cool waters of the Yukon River.  Residents of Whitehorse claim that the water temperature usually hovers at around 4 degrees Celsius, but with the recent heat wave in the Yukon, the water temperature was certainly a bit higher than that.

Later that evening I joined fellow Burlington Runners Club members Amie and Russell for a dinner of fresh Arctic salmon.  The next day we spent some time relaxing our aching muscles at the Tahkini Hot Springs and visiting the Yukon Energy Fish Ladder and Hatchery before I hitched a ride to the airport for my return flight to Vancouver before heading home on Tuesday.

Every year I try to plan one or two running vacations to a new region.  Often these destinations are trips south of the border as there are so many races in the U.S. to choose from and many are within a day’s drive from my home.  However, our great country also has some incredible places worth exploring and Whitehorse in the Yukon is certainly a unique and worthwhile place to visit.  The Yukon River Trail Marathon is also a must-do for trail running enthusiasts.  It’s an intimate and friendly race on rugged trails with splendid scenery in a remote and historic Canadian region.  What more can you possibly ask for?  I’ll have to review Derrick’s list for next year’s destination!

Gotta run,

Vince

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 “Aw-right, y’all.  Let’s make the official start line the back of my here pickup truck.” – Denis R. Hamrick Jr. – Race Director

I wasn’t initially planning on writing a report of this event, but the RD’s pre-race instructions were simply too classic and needed to be shared with others as a reminder of what ultra running should be about.

At 6:30 AM on Saturday morning, ninety-nine runners gathered at Kanawha State Forest near Charleston, West Virginia for the Rattlesnake Trail 50K race.  Although in its 16^th year, this event has remained a very low-key race.  The website simply states the race information without any pictures or even a background and registration is still done by mail-in only.

The race consists of one loop and features 10 major climbs totaling over 5000 feet of uphill.  When I checked past results, I figured that I needed to complete this challenging course in less than seven hours if I wished to maintain my middle-of-the-pack status.  This may not sound like a very fast pace, but hey, I’m not fast, my short legs aren’t strong climbers and I don’t do well in the heat.  What are my preferred running conditions you might ask?  I’m really speedy and awesome in races that occur during my sleep!

Most of the Rattlesnake Trail 50K is run on forest trails with a slight sprinkling of dirt roads and very little asphalt.  The early miles were reminiscent of the Appalachian Trail portion of the JFK 50-miler, only with longer climbs.  The double-track trails during the middle miles reminded me of the “Green Loop” of the Mohican 100, but with longer climbs.  And the rocky and root-covered late section was akin to the Iroquoia Trail Test (the race I co-RD) with, you guessed it, longer climbs.

The many up-hills really forced me to maintain a slower pace, especially near the start when I usually have a tendency to go out too fast. The mantra I kept repeating to myself was: “Take it easy, enjoy the day.”  And that’s what I did.  I chit-chatted with some new friends from Tennessee and Mississippi, I ran within myself and walked when I needed to walk.  I ate regularly, took lots of fluids and reached the midway point in 3:25.  I was on pace for my seven-hour goal.

I have a tendency to really fade in the second half of an ultra, but I felt comfortable and maintained my pace.  “Take it easy, enjoy the day.”   After the final aid-station and on the last major climb of the day, I past a runner who was sitting, legs outstretched, on the trail.  At first I thought he was injured, but he informed me that he was suffering from cramps in his thighs and calves.  He was extremely grateful when I offered him some of my electrolyte tablets and a few moments later I heard him yell from behind me down the trail: “IT WORKED, THANKS!” 

I crossed the finish line in 6:55:10; good enough for 39^th place out of 99 runners, but more importantly, no puking!  I felt good throughout the race and felt I could have kept running after the finish.  I took it easy and enjoyed the day.

In closing, I strongly encourage you to seek out and support these low-key races.  Sure I have run big-city marathons on occasion and I often enter the largest ultras that require you to either sign up months in advance or be selected in a lottery.  But each year I try to find a small race in a location I would not otherwise visit.  This has allowed me to meet wonderful people and discover interesting places such as Hot Springs, South Dakota and Virgil, New York and now Charleston, West Virginia.  A special “Thanks” to Denis and his wonderful team of volunteers on a great event!

If you have stumbled upon this blog thanks to the business cards that you have received today at the Rattlesnake Trail 50K, please share your thoughts of this wonderful race by posting a comment below.

Up next:  The Yukon River Trail Marathon in Whitehorse on August 2^nd, 2010.

Gotta run,

Vince

“The elements that unite to make the Grand Canyon the most sublime spectacle in nature are multifarious and exceedingly diverse.” – John Wesley Powell (Leader of the first expedition through the Grand Canyon, 1834-1902) The Grand Canyon In the November 2009 edition of Trail Runner Magazine, author Garett Graubins’s “Bucket List” (Get Busy Living – 24 must-have experiences for the trail runner’s life list) ranks “Run the Grand Canyon” as the #1 must-do.  So when my friend Wade Repta suggested this journey as a potential running getaway several months ago, I quickly accepted the invitation.  Jackie Muir, another West Coast ultra-runner, also jumped at the chance. Thus began the planning for our Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim (R2R2R or R3) crossing of this Natural Wonder of the World.  Flights were booked, hotel reservations made, I even purchased travel books and scoured the Internet and past-issues of my running magazine collection for as much information as possible for this undertaking.  Emails were exchanged, gear lists revised and the anticipation started to build.  The more I read, the more my excitement and my anxiety grew.  In hindsight, no book or article could have sufficiently prepared me for the “grandeur” of the Grand Canyon! “But he has a calling card.” My stubborn resistance to owning a cell phone complicated our meeting plans in Las Vegas at the start of our adventure.  Flight delays and communication obstacles notwithstanding, Wade, Jackie and I were finally reunited at the McCarran Airport car rental garage in Sin City.  We loaded our gear into the loaned Mazda and set out on the five hour drive to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. We were hoping to arrive earlier than we actually did in order to get our bearings, have a decent meal and maximize the amount of hours to rest and sleep before the upcoming Monumental Effort. Although it was dark by the time we arrived at the Grand Canyon National Park, we were still able to spot three very large and curious elks on the side of the highway.  We were pretty darn happy that they had not ventured out onto the road. Once in our room we frantically prepared our backpacks with all essentials: Sufficient food, electrolytes, gels to fuel us over the 50 mile (80Km) distance; Proper clothing for all conditions…cool at the start, potentially scorching heat at the bottom and snow on the North Rim; Safety gear including headlamps, first aid and foot care kits, emergency blankets, anti-chaffing cream; A camera to capture the beauty. “Don’t make me punch you!” Start in the dark Promptly at 4am, the three of us gathered for a picture at the trailhead sign and took our first steps down into the Canyon.  Not too far below we could see someone’s headlamp bobbing down ahead of us.  We caught the lone runner at the 1.5 mile restroom cabin.  This eager runner was also attempting the R3, but he was going solo!  We bid adieu to our new friend and continued down the trail ahead of him. In the first couple of hours our lights even caught the glowing eyes of a handful of deer that had evidently come out to greet us. Down Bright Angel The route we selected from the South Rim was the Bright Angel Trail.  There is a shorter alternate trail (The South Kaibab Trail) to the Colorado River, but Wade insisted on maximizing the total distance of our trek.  Also, Bright Angel has water access whereas the South Kaibab does not.  The Bright Angel trail corkscrewed its way down several thousand feet and we witnessed quite a stunning sunrise.  We were treated to countless other interesting photo opportunities as we ran comfortably down to the suspension bridge spanning the mighty Colorado River.  We topped up our bottles and proceeded past Phantom Ranch.  With roughly 10 miles behind us, we now started the gradual climb to the North Rim. Crossing the Colorado River Our next stop was at the Cottonwood Campground.  We knew that this was the last place to get water before the grueling climb to the top, but we also had to ensure that we had enough to get us back down to this point, a total of just over 13 miles, but this distance could potentially take several hours. Last chance for water The next 6 miles offered some of the most spectacular views imaginable.  I kept wondering to myself how could I possibly describe this beauty and vasteness?   I’m simply not that good a writer!  Hopefully the pictures will do it justice. On this steep ascent I also realized that I had not sufficiently trained for this endeavor.  Jackie and Wade were both significantly stronger than me and I started questioning whether I was a liability to the group.  The following video clip captures my struggles as the altitude and the grinding climb began to take their tolls on me. Supai Tunnel Near the Suppai Tunnel we were caught and passed by our new friend whom we had met near the start. Now with less than 2 miles to reach the summit, I was really suffering.  I suggested I turn around and get a head start back down the canyon while my friends would press on to the top.  Thankfully Wade persisted that I push on and suggested that the contents of my pack be shared between him and Jackie to lighten my load. Up, up, up... This was the ultimate display of teamwork and unselfishness.  We had begun this expedition together and we would finish it together…as long as I felt confident enough in my ability to recover and safely make it back to the South Rim.  I would have to rely on my past experiences and call upon some mental toughness, not to mention Jackie and Wade’s assistance, to ensure I make it back safely. At this altitude we were now trekking through several feet of packed snow.  Eight hours after we had first set foot on the trails, we finally reached the North Rim and we were greeted by two hikers from Dayton, Ohio.  These guys were also doing R2R2R, but they were saner by taking three days to accomplish the feat, camping two nights in the Canyon and allowing mule trains to carry their gear out.  On his way back down, the lone runner informed us that he had turned before reaching the top and that he would also be taking the shorter South Kaibab Trail out of the Grand Canyon. Top of the North Rim How much snow? We're sitting on a garbage bin! “Step your game up!” Notice the trail on the right...don't look down! The descent from the North Rim was significantly more enjoyable then the ascent.  That 6 or 7 mile climb took nearly 4 hours and literally drained me.  As we ran down the narrow trail, my spirits began to rise as did my confidence.  On this return section I even noticed some sights, including a roaring waterfall, that I did not remember seeing on the way up…proof that I was really messed up on this climb.  Soon we were back at Cottonwood and the longest stretch without water was behind us.  I have a small thermometer attached to my pack.  It was now the middle of the afternoon and the mercury had climbed to nearly 90 degrees Fahrenheit.  Great!  We had a reprieve from the altitude but now had to contend with the heat.  Thankfully we were still going downhill.  Jackie ran ahead with Wade following closely, and I was again bringing up the rear.  I was still running on this section, albeit at a much slower pace.  I could see my friends far off in the distance and Wade would regularly turn and give me a wave to ensure that I was still alright. Phantom Ranche The second time around, there was quite the hustle and bustle at Phantom Ranch.  Many hikers only venture this far and most spend the night in cabins or tents at this location.  Food is sold here but the meals must be pre-ordered several days ahead of time.  Regardless of this, I needed to inspect the place in search of some food other than the gels and bars we were carrying.  I purchased some M&M’s and some lemonade (not necessarily the tastiest combination) in hopes this would give me an added boost.  We crossed back over the suspension bridge and now had one final yet lengthy climb back to the top. True to form, I struggled once again while climbing and my partners offered one more time to carry some of my gear.  I was both humbled and thankful.

“And you continue to do this?”

Sign reads: Warning! DO NOT attempt to hike from the Canyon rim to the river and back in one day. Each year hikers suffer serious illness or death from exhaustion.

A recent finisher of R2R2R had advised Jackie that although we would feel like absolute crap on that final push, our spirits would rise when we passed other hikers.  While Wade and I were the dueling dry-heavers, we did leapfrog several people who appeared much worse for wear than us.  When they heard that we had gone R2R2R they were amazed and perhaps a bit embarrassed.  Nearly sixteen hours after our morning departure we were finally back at our starting point on the South Rim.  Surprisingly, the return trip took us less time (a negative split if you will) than the outbound trip!  Although we had initially planned on finishing with some daylight to spare, my lack of training forced us to finish significantly later.  We had seen a spectacular sunrise and an equally breathtaking sunset from inside the Grand Canyon.  The short drive back to our hotel room also turned out to be much longer than anticipated, and once again I was to blame.  We were forced to pull-over a few times to allow me to violently expel the contents of my stomach on the side of the road.  The lemonade/M&M’s mix wasn’t so tasty going in and it certainly wasn’t succulent coming out.

“Get me off!”

The next morning we took a few minutes to see the Grand Canyon from the same vantage points as the millions of visitors to this attraction each year.  The tourist lookouts offered an interesting perspective of our epic journey.   We could discern where the trail meandered down to the Colorado River and way off in the distance we could spot a tiny white speck which was the snowy North Rim where we stood hours ago.  To celebrate our accomplishment we spent Sunday (and a good part of Monday morning) enjoying the surreal city of Las Vegas.  Nuff said there!

On my flight home (and it’s many connections) thoughts and images of the R3 started to set in.  I needed paper to scribble notes that were jumbling around in my head for this blog post.  In a perfect twist of irony, the only paper available was the “refuse” bag in the seat pouch in front of me.

Mile for mile, R2R2R was the toughest run I’ve done to date.  But with the help of my longtime buddy Wade and my new friend Jackie, I was able to battle and accomplish what we set out to do months ago.  Wade was quick to remind me the next morning that:  “Vince, you did not conquer the Grand Canyon, you had a pact with it.  The Grand Canyon agreed not to kill you as long as you agree not to claim to have conquered it!”

We crossed (not conquered) that bad boy!

Better quality pictures of our Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim adventure are available on Flickr.  Contact me if you would like me to send you the link.

Gotta run,

Vince

“So if you’re dreaming about California,  It don’t matter at all where you played before, California’s a brand new game”

– All the Gold in California by Larry Gatlin and The Gatlin Brothers

There as so many interesting locales for a running vacation around the World.  Several books on this subject have been published, including Kimi Puntillo’s Great Races, Incredible Places – 100+ Fantastic Runs Around the World which has been reviewed here on Monumental Effort.  But arguably, the Mecca for running destinations in North America is the beautiful state of California.  Whenever I do research to determine my racing schedule, each year I seem to be drawn to races in The Golden State.  Of course there is the granddaddy of ultra races, The Western States Endurance Run, which appears on most ultra runners “Must do” lists.

Two-time WS 100 Champ, Hal Koerner crossing the American River

Unfortunately, I have yet to be selected in the WS100 sweepstake but I will attempt to run a qualifier and continue applying to the lottery for as long as it takes.  I have been fortunate however to visit California on more than one occasion and I have even had to pleasure of running there.

Each year the biggest and most competitive ultra races are held in California.  The aforementioned WS100, along with Miwok 100K, the American River 50-miler, Way Too Cool 50K and San Diego’s 24-hour are usually amid the most attended races in their respective distances and perhaps draw the most competitive fields.  According to Ultra Running magazine’s annual “Big List”, nearly one-third of the Top 100 Ultras each year are held in California.  In 2008 there were over 7000 finishers of ultra events in California.  Texas was second in this particular report with 1758 finishers but with the cancellation of the SunMart Trail Endurance Runs, this number has definitely dropped considerably since.

source: UltraRunning, March 2009, page 37

Moreover, California counts 64 marathons including one of the most desired courses, the Big Sur Marathon, along with two of the most popular marathons:  the Los Angeles Marathon (6^th largest in the US in 2009 with 14,128 finishers)and San Diego’s Rock n’ Roll Marathon (7^th with 13,328 finishers). This trend does not only apply to marathons and ultras.  The website www.runningintheusa.com lists 836 total races of various distances in California, by far the most of any state.  Furthermore, there are over 150 different running clubs in California.  Texas once again comes in second with a measly 79 clubs.

Big Sur Bridge

So what makes California such a runner’s paradise?

Population and Demographics: With a population of approximately 37 million, there are as many people in the state of California as there are in all of Canada.  California is the most populous state and this amount represents roughly 9% of the entire U.S. population.  It is also the fastest growing state with a relatively young population.  Nearly 25% of its population is under the age of twenty-five.  With such a large population base, this inevitably translates into greater demand and more participation in almost everything including running.

Geography and Climate: California is America’s 3^rd largest State with an area of 423,971 Km² (163,696 square miles), but its geography and climate are much more diverse and hospitable than both Alaska and Texas who are bigger.  In terms of diversity, we find in this state the highest (Mount Whitney at 4,425m or 14,505ft above sea level) and lowest (Death Valley at 85.5m or 282ft below sea level) geographical points of the contiguous United States.  Interestingly, parts of both of these regions are tackled in the grueling Badwater 135 run!  California also has dozens upon dozens of mountain ranges, thousands of kilometers of scenic coastline, a number of arid deserts, lush valleys and majestic forests with some of the tallest and oldest trees in North America.  With this kind of topographical variety on such a large area, we invariably find numerous State Parks (http://www.parks.ca.gov) and countless trail systems (http://www.californiatrails.org) to explore.

As for temperature, California is blessed with an assortment of different climates from mild Mediterranean in Northern California to subtropical conditions in the low-lying central inland valleys.  With the exception of the high-altitude mountain summits, the mercury rarely dips below freezing in California.  How great would it be to cast away your tights and toques to run outdoors in shorts and t-shirt year-round?

All this said, California is not immune to political and social strife or to natural disasters such as earthquakes and wildfires.  Also, with such a large population, California obviously has many big cities which inevitably leads to unemployment, poverty, crime, and violence.   I consider myself a proud Canadian and I am very thankful to be living in this great country, but if you are in need of a holiday and would like to include a race during your getaway, I strongly suggest exploring California.  With so much to chose from, you will certainly find a venue to suit your needs and interests.  I personally plan on -and very much look forward to- returning to California in order to run some of the “classics” but I also intend on exploring some of the more obscure races and places.  I understand that there are many fascinating and beautiful destinations right here in Canada, but a strong Canadian dollar coupled with airfare from Buffalo to most U.S. destinations considerably lower than flying within our country, I am encouraged to continue seeking out races south of the boarder.

Vince at Miwok

If you have run in California, we would love to hear your M.E. story about it.  We have already received accounts of WS100, but perhaps you have experienced a different race or destination.  What do you recommend in California?  Please share your adventures by posting a comment or submitting a report.

Gotta run, Vince

“Whatever the mind can conceive and believe, the mind can achieve.” Dr. Napolean Hill

Over the past seventeen days the 2010 Winter Olympics provided the World with dozens upon dozens of Monumental Effort stories.  Seeing as we were already inundated with coverage of the games, we felt that reporting on these stories on our blog would be somewhat redundant.   We therefore decided to let the giants of mainstream media provide followers with their versions of commentaries and reports.

Nonetheless, the games most certainly offered many examples of perseverance and the strength of the human spirit.  You did not need to look very far for the story about an athlete who narrowly missed qualifying and then went on to win gold.   There were teams who stumbled in the early rounds of competition only to recover and eventually earn a spot on the podium.  We also saw competitors who despite suffering injuries and surgeries in the past were able to overcome these setbacks and return to dominance in their sport.  Finally, viewers witnessed victims of personal tragedies who managed to suppress their heartache in order to focus and compete on the biggest sporting stage imaginable.

I have my own personal favorite moments from these Olympic Games, but as a sports fan, I simply enjoyed watching passionate and dedicated athletes as they persevered and applied all the work and dedication from the many years of preparation and training to compete against the very best in their disciplines. How do they do it?  What makes them tick?  How do elite athletes dig so deep within themselves to push harder than ever and put it all on the line?

Although a work of fiction, Willis B. McCarthy’s novel “100 Miles to Destiny” offers an insight into the minds of athletes as they compete at the Olympics.  The reader is also treated to a behind-the-scenes look at the organization of an international event.  The setting of the story is the XXIII Olympiad of 1984 held in Los Angeles and the event is a 100-mile run.  There will likely never be any such race at the Olympics, but the author cleverly chooses one of the most prestigious ultra running courses for his tale; the famed Western States Trail in California’s Sierra Nevada mountains from Squaw Valley to Auburn in California.

A seasoned ultra runner and 4-time finisher of Western States, McCarthy clearly understands the highs and lows a runner experiences over the course of a 100-mile race.  Also, his knowledge of this particular course is quite evident.  Whether you are one of the lucky runners who have run this race, or if you are like me and have read many accounts about it, you will certainly appreciate his accuracy and detail.

Although the 1984 Summer Olympics were boycotted by many Eastern-bloc countries and their allies, this novel includes participants from places like Poland, East Germany and Russia.  The author weaves a storyline involving a new leader of the Communist Party who helps avoid a boycott in order to make these Olympics a truly global competition.

McCarthy also develops many interesting personalities including some inevitable stereotypes.  100 Miles to Destiny features a rivalry between an American who is the reigning WS100 champ and a cold-blooded Russian runner.  Other characters include the speedy Africans who set a torrid pace to take the early lead, an enlightened Buddhist Japanese athlete and a quick-witted Irish runner to name a few.

The Canadian contender in the book is a character named Ian Jones.  A personable and well-liked athlete, entering the race Ian Jones is one of the early favorites based on his 100Km World Record time.  At one point the Canadian runner takes part in some friendly banter on the trail with other runners over which country has the best beer.  Unfortunately the author misspelled “Molson’s”!  Shame on him!

Any follower of ultra running in this country will undoubtedly suspect that this character is an accolade to the great Andy Jones who still holds several Canadian ultra-running records.  In the late 1990’s Andy Jones set the standard in the following distances:  2:53:20 for 50K, 4:54:50 for 50-Miles, and a mind-boggling 12:05:43 for 100-miles.

Willis B. McCarthy notes that he took over 2 decades to write this his first novel and its completion is what defines him.  Sprinkled throughout the book the reader will find evidence of McCarthy’s many travels and his knowledge of historical events.  100 Miles to Destiny is a light read and an amusing page-turner.  Although the reader might suspect to know the outcome of the race, we are encouraged to read on with curiosity.

As I write this post I realize that this is the first book of fiction that has been reviewed on Monumental Effort.  Another well-known novel about running, John L. Parker’s Once a Runner, will be featured next month.  If you would like to share a book review with us, click the “Submit your story” tab at the top of the page and start typing.  Perhaps you would like to recommend a book?  Please leave us a comment below.

Gotta run,

Vince