“There are strange things done in the midnight sun
By the men who moil for gold
The Arctic trails have their secret tales
That would make your blood run cold.”

The Cremation of Sam McGee by Robert Service

Seeing as my wife was travelling to India to visit her daughter, I decided to find a unique race in an exciting locale to run while she was away.  In a recent issue of Canadian Running magazine, Derrick Spafford wrote a piece on Canada’s Top 10 Must-Do Trail Races.  One race in particular that caught my eye was the Yukon River Trail Marathon.  In the article Spafford states:  “While you certainly won’t run your fastest marathon time on this course thanks to the elevation change and technical trail surface, you will be treated to the sheer beauty and joy of trail running in Whitehorse.”

Another article that I came across in my research was Erin Sheard’s “The True North Strong and Free and Fast: The Great Canadian Marathon Guide in iRun Magazine.  Here the author lists the YRTM as the “Best off-roading” marathon and writes: “(the race) is run on tricky terrain with drop-offs, quick turns, and narrow trails. The route is devilishly designed so that each upcoming leg is harder than the previous. In the final leg awaits Heart Break and Pee Wee hill. Extreme caution is advised—the glorious scenery is tempting, but keep your eyes on the trail”.

It appeared I had found my next running destination!

Flights were booked, hotel reservations made and I eagerly awaited my trip north of 60.  This adventure began with a short stopover to visit some friends in Vancouver.  I met Dom for an hour run along the seawall on Thursday afternoon.  Later we joined Wade and one of their friends for some sailing in English Bay.  Any sane runner would have called it a night in order to rest for the upcoming race and try to beat the jet lag.  However, our night out on the town continued as we met Jackie (my other fellow Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim adventurer), Gary Robbins (fresh off his top-10 performance at Western States and gearing up for his speed record attempt of the WCT) and others at a lounge where DJ Ecos (aka Dom) was spinning.  Long story short, the 7AM wake up came pretty darn fast.

The start of the race was conveniently about 500 meters from my hotel.  Some fifty runners gathered at Shipyards Park for the marathon start at 8:30AM.   More than thirty marathon relay teams of four runners departed at 9:15AM and nearly 150 other competitors were slated to run the half-marathon which started at 10:00AM.  Weather in Whitehorse was uncharacteristically warm as the start signal was given following some last-minute instructions by the Race Director.  “If you encounter a bear, be cautious” he warned!  I’m still not sure what “be cautious” means!

Russell, Amie and Vince pre-race

Runners trotted through town on the River Trail (a paved path) for a couple of kilometers towards the more rugged Millennium Trail.  In one nearby wooded area it was evident that a colony of beavers lived in the vicinity.  You can see that the rodents had been busy chewing down trees near the Robert Service campground.  After passing the Whitehorse Rapids Plant and several moored float-planes, runners crossed The Miles Canyon suspension bridge and headed up towards the top of the escarpment. 

Although I was running alone, the scenery at the summit of the first major climb forced a loud “WOW!” out of me.  The view of the Yukon River down below was stunning.  The water of the “great river” appeared so clear and refreshing as it snaked its way off into the distance.

The next section ran through what is called Canyon City, rolling trails along the river.  The race website suggests: “EXTREME CAUTION should be used as there are some steep drop offs to the river. Keep your eyes on the terrain, not the scenery.” After a long and steep downhill, runners arrive at Chadburn Lake aid-station and roughly the mid-way mark of the race.

As mentioned in iRun Magazine, the next two segments of the race would turn out to be more difficult than the previous two.  Leg three is characterized by technical trails which undulate through wooded areas and around small lakes.  At the top of one of the biggest hills on the course, a makeshift aid-station was there to offer runners some fluids.  The two volunteers at this spot must carry the water to this point on mountain bikes.  Certainly a Monumental Effort in itself!

The heat and constant up and downs began to wear me out at this point and I found myself taking much longer walking breaks than anticipated.  However, I knew I wasn’t in the Yukon to set personal records so I resolved to maintain forward progress and enjoy the tranquility and hopefully no bear encounters.  Finally I reached the last aid-station which happens to also be the first one on the course at the Miles Canyon Bridge. 

This time runners head north rather than retrace their steps from the first leg.  The trail skirts Schwatka Lakes and features Pee Wee Hill.  When I arrived at this hill I was a bit discouraged as the climb was steep, sandy and seemed endless.  A couple of spectators at the foot of the hill offered some encouragement as I slowly plodded uphill.  What goes up must come down.  After finally reaching the top, the trail follows a series of steep switchbacks down to the final aid-station back at the Rapids Dam.  With roughly five kilometers to go, I resolved to run as much of this section as possible. 

A large eagle’s nest atop a tree along the path towards town had attracted several tourists who eagerly took pictures of two huge Bald Eagles resting there.  A few hundred yards further down the route SS Klondike permanently rests.  This is a tribute to the era of riverboat transportation which serviced Whitehorse before roads had been constructed to the capital. 

With less than two kilometers to go, it was unclear which way the course went.  I suppose to the local runners this junction is a no-brainer, but myself and a half-marathoner were stopped and debating which way to go.  “I would hate to go off course in the last 2K” said the runner from Abbotsford.  Luckily someone who had been watching the runners come in saw us standing there looking confused and pointed us in the right direction.

I crossed the finish line in a lackluster time of 4:34:07, but as Spafford warned, personal bests are not likely on this course.  The post-race meal of (my favorite) meat-lovers pizza was a welcome treat.  A lot of runners, including me, also took a refreshing dip in the cool waters of the Yukon River.  Residents of Whitehorse claim that the water temperature usually hovers at around 4 degrees Celsius, but with the recent heat wave in the Yukon, the water temperature was certainly a bit higher than that.

Later that evening I joined fellow Burlington Runners Club members Amie and Russell for a dinner of fresh Arctic salmon.  The next day we spent some time relaxing our aching muscles at the Tahkini Hot Springs and visiting the Yukon Energy Fish Ladder and Hatchery before I hitched a ride to the airport for my return flight to Vancouver before heading home on Tuesday.

Every year I try to plan one or two running vacations to a new region.  Often these destinations are trips south of the border as there are so many races in the U.S. to choose from and many are within a day’s drive from my home.  However, our great country also has some incredible places worth exploring and Whitehorse in the Yukon is certainly a unique and worthwhile place to visit.  The Yukon River Trail Marathon is also a must-do for trail running enthusiasts.  It’s an intimate and friendly race on rugged trails with splendid scenery in a remote and historic Canadian region.  What more can you possibly ask for?  I’ll have to review Derrick’s list for next year’s destination!

Gotta run,

Vince

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 “Aw-right, y’all.  Let’s make the official start line the back of my here pickup truck.” – Denis R. Hamrick Jr. – Race Director

I wasn’t initially planning on writing a report of this event, but the RD’s pre-race instructions were simply too classic and needed to be shared with others as a reminder of what ultra running should be about.

At 6:30 AM on Saturday morning, ninety-nine runners gathered at Kanawha State Forest near Charleston, West Virginia for the Rattlesnake Trail 50K race.  Although in its 16^th year, this event has remained a very low-key race.  The website simply states the race information without any pictures or even a background and registration is still done by mail-in only.

The race consists of one loop and features 10 major climbs totaling over 5000 feet of uphill.  When I checked past results, I figured that I needed to complete this challenging course in less than seven hours if I wished to maintain my middle-of-the-pack status.  This may not sound like a very fast pace, but hey, I’m not fast, my short legs aren’t strong climbers and I don’t do well in the heat.  What are my preferred running conditions you might ask?  I’m really speedy and awesome in races that occur during my sleep!

Most of the Rattlesnake Trail 50K is run on forest trails with a slight sprinkling of dirt roads and very little asphalt.  The early miles were reminiscent of the Appalachian Trail portion of the JFK 50-miler, only with longer climbs.  The double-track trails during the middle miles reminded me of the “Green Loop” of the Mohican 100, but with longer climbs.  And the rocky and root-covered late section was akin to the Iroquoia Trail Test (the race I co-RD) with, you guessed it, longer climbs.

The many up-hills really forced me to maintain a slower pace, especially near the start when I usually have a tendency to go out too fast. The mantra I kept repeating to myself was: “Take it easy, enjoy the day.”  And that’s what I did.  I chit-chatted with some new friends from Tennessee and Mississippi, I ran within myself and walked when I needed to walk.  I ate regularly, took lots of fluids and reached the midway point in 3:25.  I was on pace for my seven-hour goal.

I have a tendency to really fade in the second half of an ultra, but I felt comfortable and maintained my pace.  “Take it easy, enjoy the day.”   After the final aid-station and on the last major climb of the day, I past a runner who was sitting, legs outstretched, on the trail.  At first I thought he was injured, but he informed me that he was suffering from cramps in his thighs and calves.  He was extremely grateful when I offered him some of my electrolyte tablets and a few moments later I heard him yell from behind me down the trail: “IT WORKED, THANKS!” 

I crossed the finish line in 6:55:10; good enough for 39^th place out of 99 runners, but more importantly, no puking!  I felt good throughout the race and felt I could have kept running after the finish.  I took it easy and enjoyed the day.

In closing, I strongly encourage you to seek out and support these low-key races.  Sure I have run big-city marathons on occasion and I often enter the largest ultras that require you to either sign up months in advance or be selected in a lottery.  But each year I try to find a small race in a location I would not otherwise visit.  This has allowed me to meet wonderful people and discover interesting places such as Hot Springs, South Dakota and Virgil, New York and now Charleston, West Virginia.  A special “Thanks” to Denis and his wonderful team of volunteers on a great event!

If you have stumbled upon this blog thanks to the business cards that you have received today at the Rattlesnake Trail 50K, please share your thoughts of this wonderful race by posting a comment below.

Up next:  The Yukon River Trail Marathon in Whitehorse on August 2^nd, 2010.

Gotta run,

Vince

“The elements that unite to make the Grand Canyon the most sublime spectacle in nature are multifarious and exceedingly diverse.” – John Wesley Powell (Leader of the first expedition through the Grand Canyon, 1834-1902) The Grand Canyon In the November 2009 edition of Trail Runner Magazine, author Garett Graubins’s “Bucket List” (Get Busy Living – 24 must-have experiences for the trail runner’s life list) ranks “Run the Grand Canyon” as the #1 must-do.  So when my friend Wade Repta suggested this journey as a potential running getaway several months ago, I quickly accepted the invitation.  Jackie Muir, another West Coast ultra-runner, also jumped at the chance. Thus began the planning for our Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim (R2R2R or R3) crossing of this Natural Wonder of the World.  Flights were booked, hotel reservations made, I even purchased travel books and scoured the Internet and past-issues of my running magazine collection for as much information as possible for this undertaking.  Emails were exchanged, gear lists revised and the anticipation started to build.  The more I read, the more my excitement and my anxiety grew.  In hindsight, no book or article could have sufficiently prepared me for the “grandeur” of the Grand Canyon! “But he has a calling card.” My stubborn resistance to owning a cell phone complicated our meeting plans in Las Vegas at the start of our adventure.  Flight delays and communication obstacles notwithstanding, Wade, Jackie and I were finally reunited at the McCarran Airport car rental garage in Sin City.  We loaded our gear into the loaned Mazda and set out on the five hour drive to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. We were hoping to arrive earlier than we actually did in order to get our bearings, have a decent meal and maximize the amount of hours to rest and sleep before the upcoming Monumental Effort. Although it was dark by the time we arrived at the Grand Canyon National Park, we were still able to spot three very large and curious elks on the side of the highway.  We were pretty darn happy that they had not ventured out onto the road. Once in our room we frantically prepared our backpacks with all essentials: Sufficient food, electrolytes, gels to fuel us over the 50 mile (80Km) distance; Proper clothing for all conditions…cool at the start, potentially scorching heat at the bottom and snow on the North Rim; Safety gear including headlamps, first aid and foot care kits, emergency blankets, anti-chaffing cream; A camera to capture the beauty. “Don’t make me punch you!” Start in the dark Promptly at 4am, the three of us gathered for a picture at the trailhead sign and took our first steps down into the Canyon.  Not too far below we could see someone’s headlamp bobbing down ahead of us.  We caught the lone runner at the 1.5 mile restroom cabin.  This eager runner was also attempting the R3, but he was going solo!  We bid adieu to our new friend and continued down the trail ahead of him. In the first couple of hours our lights even caught the glowing eyes of a handful of deer that had evidently come out to greet us. Down Bright Angel The route we selected from the South Rim was the Bright Angel Trail.  There is a shorter alternate trail (The South Kaibab Trail) to the Colorado River, but Wade insisted on maximizing the total distance of our trek.  Also, Bright Angel has water access whereas the South Kaibab does not.  The Bright Angel trail corkscrewed its way down several thousand feet and we witnessed quite a stunning sunrise.  We were treated to countless other interesting photo opportunities as we ran comfortably down to the suspension bridge spanning the mighty Colorado River.  We topped up our bottles and proceeded past Phantom Ranch.  With roughly 10 miles behind us, we now started the gradual climb to the North Rim. Crossing the Colorado River Our next stop was at the Cottonwood Campground.  We knew that this was the last place to get water before the grueling climb to the top, but we also had to ensure that we had enough to get us back down to this point, a total of just over 13 miles, but this distance could potentially take several hours. Last chance for water The next 6 miles offered some of the most spectacular views imaginable.  I kept wondering to myself how could I possibly describe this beauty and vasteness?   I’m simply not that good a writer!  Hopefully the pictures will do it justice. On this steep ascent I also realized that I had not sufficiently trained for this endeavor.  Jackie and Wade were both significantly stronger than me and I started questioning whether I was a liability to the group.  The following video clip captures my struggles as the altitude and the grinding climb began to take their tolls on me. Supai Tunnel Near the Suppai Tunnel we were caught and passed by our new friend whom we had met near the start. Now with less than 2 miles to reach the summit, I was really suffering.  I suggested I turn around and get a head start back down the canyon while my friends would press on to the top.  Thankfully Wade persisted that I push on and suggested that the contents of my pack be shared between him and Jackie to lighten my load. Up, up, up... This was the ultimate display of teamwork and unselfishness.  We had begun this expedition together and we would finish it together…as long as I felt confident enough in my ability to recover and safely make it back to the South Rim.  I would have to rely on my past experiences and call upon some mental toughness, not to mention Jackie and Wade’s assistance, to ensure I make it back safely. At this altitude we were now trekking through several feet of packed snow.  Eight hours after we had first set foot on the trails, we finally reached the North Rim and we were greeted by two hikers from Dayton, Ohio.  These guys were also doing R2R2R, but they were saner by taking three days to accomplish the feat, camping two nights in the Canyon and allowing mule trains to carry their gear out.  On his way back down, the lone runner informed us that he had turned before reaching the top and that he would also be taking the shorter South Kaibab Trail out of the Grand Canyon. Top of the North Rim How much snow? We're sitting on a garbage bin! “Step your game up!” Notice the trail on the right...don't look down! The descent from the North Rim was significantly more enjoyable then the ascent.  That 6 or 7 mile climb took nearly 4 hours and literally drained me.  As we ran down the narrow trail, my spirits began to rise as did my confidence.  On this return section I even noticed some sights, including a roaring waterfall, that I did not remember seeing on the way up…proof that I was really messed up on this climb.  Soon we were back at Cottonwood and the longest stretch without water was behind us.  I have a small thermometer attached to my pack.  It was now the middle of the afternoon and the mercury had climbed to nearly 90 degrees Fahrenheit.  Great!  We had a reprieve from the altitude but now had to contend with the heat.  Thankfully we were still going downhill.  Jackie ran ahead with Wade following closely, and I was again bringing up the rear.  I was still running on this section, albeit at a much slower pace.  I could see my friends far off in the distance and Wade would regularly turn and give me a wave to ensure that I was still alright. Phantom Ranche The second time around, there was quite the hustle and bustle at Phantom Ranch.  Many hikers only venture this far and most spend the night in cabins or tents at this location.  Food is sold here but the meals must be pre-ordered several days ahead of time.  Regardless of this, I needed to inspect the place in search of some food other than the gels and bars we were carrying.  I purchased some M&M’s and some lemonade (not necessarily the tastiest combination) in hopes this would give me an added boost.  We crossed back over the suspension bridge and now had one final yet lengthy climb back to the top. True to form, I struggled once again while climbing and my partners offered one more time to carry some of my gear.  I was both humbled and thankful.

“And you continue to do this?”

Sign reads: Warning! DO NOT attempt to hike from the Canyon rim to the river and back in one day. Each year hikers suffer serious illness or death from exhaustion.

A recent finisher of R2R2R had advised Jackie that although we would feel like absolute crap on that final push, our spirits would rise when we passed other hikers.  While Wade and I were the dueling dry-heavers, we did leapfrog several people who appeared much worse for wear than us.  When they heard that we had gone R2R2R they were amazed and perhaps a bit embarrassed.  Nearly sixteen hours after our morning departure we were finally back at our starting point on the South Rim.  Surprisingly, the return trip took us less time (a negative split if you will) than the outbound trip!  Although we had initially planned on finishing with some daylight to spare, my lack of training forced us to finish significantly later.  We had seen a spectacular sunrise and an equally breathtaking sunset from inside the Grand Canyon.  The short drive back to our hotel room also turned out to be much longer than anticipated, and once again I was to blame.  We were forced to pull-over a few times to allow me to violently expel the contents of my stomach on the side of the road.  The lemonade/M&M’s mix wasn’t so tasty going in and it certainly wasn’t succulent coming out.

“Get me off!”

The next morning we took a few minutes to see the Grand Canyon from the same vantage points as the millions of visitors to this attraction each year.  The tourist lookouts offered an interesting perspective of our epic journey.   We could discern where the trail meandered down to the Colorado River and way off in the distance we could spot a tiny white speck which was the snowy North Rim where we stood hours ago.  To celebrate our accomplishment we spent Sunday (and a good part of Monday morning) enjoying the surreal city of Las Vegas.  Nuff said there!

On my flight home (and it’s many connections) thoughts and images of the R3 started to set in.  I needed paper to scribble notes that were jumbling around in my head for this blog post.  In a perfect twist of irony, the only paper available was the “refuse” bag in the seat pouch in front of me.

Mile for mile, R2R2R was the toughest run I’ve done to date.  But with the help of my longtime buddy Wade and my new friend Jackie, I was able to battle and accomplish what we set out to do months ago.  Wade was quick to remind me the next morning that:  “Vince, you did not conquer the Grand Canyon, you had a pact with it.  The Grand Canyon agreed not to kill you as long as you agree not to claim to have conquered it!”

We crossed (not conquered) that bad boy!

Better quality pictures of our Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim adventure are available on Flickr.  Contact me if you would like me to send you the link.

Gotta run,

Vince

“So if you’re dreaming about California,  It don’t matter at all where you played before, California’s a brand new game”

– All the Gold in California by Larry Gatlin and The Gatlin Brothers

There as so many interesting locales for a running vacation around the World.  Several books on this subject have been published, including Kimi Puntillo’s Great Races, Incredible Places – 100+ Fantastic Runs Around the World which has been reviewed here on Monumental Effort.  But arguably, the Mecca for running destinations in North America is the beautiful state of California.  Whenever I do research to determine my racing schedule, each year I seem to be drawn to races in The Golden State.  Of course there is the granddaddy of ultra races, The Western States Endurance Run, which appears on most ultra runners “Must do” lists.

Two-time WS 100 Champ, Hal Koerner crossing the American River

Unfortunately, I have yet to be selected in the WS100 sweepstake but I will attempt to run a qualifier and continue applying to the lottery for as long as it takes.  I have been fortunate however to visit California on more than one occasion and I have even had to pleasure of running there.

Each year the biggest and most competitive ultra races are held in California.  The aforementioned WS100, along with Miwok 100K, the American River 50-miler, Way Too Cool 50K and San Diego’s 24-hour are usually amid the most attended races in their respective distances and perhaps draw the most competitive fields.  According to Ultra Running magazine’s annual “Big List”, nearly one-third of the Top 100 Ultras each year are held in California.  In 2008 there were over 7000 finishers of ultra events in California.  Texas was second in this particular report with 1758 finishers but with the cancellation of the SunMart Trail Endurance Runs, this number has definitely dropped considerably since.

source: UltraRunning, March 2009, page 37

Moreover, California counts 64 marathons including one of the most desired courses, the Big Sur Marathon, along with two of the most popular marathons:  the Los Angeles Marathon (6^th largest in the US in 2009 with 14,128 finishers)and San Diego’s Rock n’ Roll Marathon (7^th with 13,328 finishers). This trend does not only apply to marathons and ultras.  The website www.runningintheusa.com lists 836 total races of various distances in California, by far the most of any state.  Furthermore, there are over 150 different running clubs in California.  Texas once again comes in second with a measly 79 clubs.

Big Sur Bridge

So what makes California such a runner’s paradise?

Population and Demographics: With a population of approximately 37 million, there are as many people in the state of California as there are in all of Canada.  California is the most populous state and this amount represents roughly 9% of the entire U.S. population.  It is also the fastest growing state with a relatively young population.  Nearly 25% of its population is under the age of twenty-five.  With such a large population base, this inevitably translates into greater demand and more participation in almost everything including running.

Geography and Climate: California is America’s 3^rd largest State with an area of 423,971 Km² (163,696 square miles), but its geography and climate are much more diverse and hospitable than both Alaska and Texas who are bigger.  In terms of diversity, we find in this state the highest (Mount Whitney at 4,425m or 14,505ft above sea level) and lowest (Death Valley at 85.5m or 282ft below sea level) geographical points of the contiguous United States.  Interestingly, parts of both of these regions are tackled in the grueling Badwater 135 run!  California also has dozens upon dozens of mountain ranges, thousands of kilometers of scenic coastline, a number of arid deserts, lush valleys and majestic forests with some of the tallest and oldest trees in North America.  With this kind of topographical variety on such a large area, we invariably find numerous State Parks (http://www.parks.ca.gov) and countless trail systems (http://www.californiatrails.org) to explore.

As for temperature, California is blessed with an assortment of different climates from mild Mediterranean in Northern California to subtropical conditions in the low-lying central inland valleys.  With the exception of the high-altitude mountain summits, the mercury rarely dips below freezing in California.  How great would it be to cast away your tights and toques to run outdoors in shorts and t-shirt year-round?

All this said, California is not immune to political and social strife or to natural disasters such as earthquakes and wildfires.  Also, with such a large population, California obviously has many big cities which inevitably leads to unemployment, poverty, crime, and violence.   I consider myself a proud Canadian and I am very thankful to be living in this great country, but if you are in need of a holiday and would like to include a race during your getaway, I strongly suggest exploring California.  With so much to chose from, you will certainly find a venue to suit your needs and interests.  I personally plan on -and very much look forward to- returning to California in order to run some of the “classics” but I also intend on exploring some of the more obscure races and places.  I understand that there are many fascinating and beautiful destinations right here in Canada, but a strong Canadian dollar coupled with airfare from Buffalo to most U.S. destinations considerably lower than flying within our country, I am encouraged to continue seeking out races south of the boarder.

Vince at Miwok

If you have run in California, we would love to hear your M.E. story about it.  We have already received accounts of WS100, but perhaps you have experienced a different race or destination.  What do you recommend in California?  Please share your adventures by posting a comment or submitting a report.

Gotta run, Vince

“Whatever the mind can conceive and believe, the mind can achieve.” Dr. Napolean Hill

Over the past seventeen days the 2010 Winter Olympics provided the World with dozens upon dozens of Monumental Effort stories.  Seeing as we were already inundated with coverage of the games, we felt that reporting on these stories on our blog would be somewhat redundant.   We therefore decided to let the giants of mainstream media provide followers with their versions of commentaries and reports.

Nonetheless, the games most certainly offered many examples of perseverance and the strength of the human spirit.  You did not need to look very far for the story about an athlete who narrowly missed qualifying and then went on to win gold.   There were teams who stumbled in the early rounds of competition only to recover and eventually earn a spot on the podium.  We also saw competitors who despite suffering injuries and surgeries in the past were able to overcome these setbacks and return to dominance in their sport.  Finally, viewers witnessed victims of personal tragedies who managed to suppress their heartache in order to focus and compete on the biggest sporting stage imaginable.

I have my own personal favorite moments from these Olympic Games, but as a sports fan, I simply enjoyed watching passionate and dedicated athletes as they persevered and applied all the work and dedication from the many years of preparation and training to compete against the very best in their disciplines. How do they do it?  What makes them tick?  How do elite athletes dig so deep within themselves to push harder than ever and put it all on the line?

Although a work of fiction, Willis B. McCarthy’s novel “100 Miles to Destiny” offers an insight into the minds of athletes as they compete at the Olympics.  The reader is also treated to a behind-the-scenes look at the organization of an international event.  The setting of the story is the XXIII Olympiad of 1984 held in Los Angeles and the event is a 100-mile run.  There will likely never be any such race at the Olympics, but the author cleverly chooses one of the most prestigious ultra running courses for his tale; the famed Western States Trail in California’s Sierra Nevada mountains from Squaw Valley to Auburn in California.

A seasoned ultra runner and 4-time finisher of Western States, McCarthy clearly understands the highs and lows a runner experiences over the course of a 100-mile race.  Also, his knowledge of this particular course is quite evident.  Whether you are one of the lucky runners who have run this race, or if you are like me and have read many accounts about it, you will certainly appreciate his accuracy and detail.

Although the 1984 Summer Olympics were boycotted by many Eastern-bloc countries and their allies, this novel includes participants from places like Poland, East Germany and Russia.  The author weaves a storyline involving a new leader of the Communist Party who helps avoid a boycott in order to make these Olympics a truly global competition.

McCarthy also develops many interesting personalities including some inevitable stereotypes.  100 Miles to Destiny features a rivalry between an American who is the reigning WS100 champ and a cold-blooded Russian runner.  Other characters include the speedy Africans who set a torrid pace to take the early lead, an enlightened Buddhist Japanese athlete and a quick-witted Irish runner to name a few.

The Canadian contender in the book is a character named Ian Jones.  A personable and well-liked athlete, entering the race Ian Jones is one of the early favorites based on his 100Km World Record time.  At one point the Canadian runner takes part in some friendly banter on the trail with other runners over which country has the best beer.  Unfortunately the author misspelled “Molson’s”!  Shame on him!

Any follower of ultra running in this country will undoubtedly suspect that this character is an accolade to the great Andy Jones who still holds several Canadian ultra-running records.  In the late 1990’s Andy Jones set the standard in the following distances:  2:53:20 for 50K, 4:54:50 for 50-Miles, and a mind-boggling 12:05:43 for 100-miles.

Willis B. McCarthy notes that he took over 2 decades to write this his first novel and its completion is what defines him.  Sprinkled throughout the book the reader will find evidence of McCarthy’s many travels and his knowledge of historical events.  100 Miles to Destiny is a light read and an amusing page-turner.  Although the reader might suspect to know the outcome of the race, we are encouraged to read on with curiosity.

As I write this post I realize that this is the first book of fiction that has been reviewed on Monumental Effort.  Another well-known novel about running, John L. Parker’s Once a Runner, will be featured next month.  If you would like to share a book review with us, click the “Submit your story” tab at the top of the page and start typing.  Perhaps you would like to recommend a book?  Please leave us a comment below.

Gotta run,

Vince

‘A’OHE PU’U KI’EKI’E KE HO’À’O ‘IA E PI’I
(No cliff is so tall it cannot be climbed) – Hawaiian proverb

In my professional life, I’m a teacher and guidance counselor at Académie catholique Mère-Teresa in Hamilton.  We are a school of approximately 300 students, but our boys’ basketball team manages to compete with the province’s largest schools.  I credit the success of our program to our Head Coach, and my good friend, Martin Vaillancourt.  Martin grew up playing basketball in Québec, was a member of several provincial championship teams there, and later played for the Rouge et Or at l’Université de Laval.  I on the other hand, have never played competitive hoops, but have always had a certain passion for this game.  With my 5’5 frame, I guess I just have a secret yearning to be as tall as them!!

Before Martin’s arrival at our school, one of the many teams that I coached was the junior boys’ basketball squad (we had no senior teams at the time).  During those early years in our school’s history, we got thumped pretty badly, losing regularly by big margins.  When Martin was hired, with his basketball credentials, I gladly handed him the reins and volunteered to become his assistant.  Thanks to Martin’s expertise and hard work, we are now one of the strongest teams in Ontario, having won three consecutive OFSAA ‘A’ Championships.

One of our best recruiting tools is our bi-annual trip to Hawaii.  This tradition started in 2005 and will hopefully continue for many years to come.  In December 2009, the ACMT Jaguars made their third trip to the island of Oahu to compete once again in the Palama Settlement Christmas Classic.  As luck would have it, this year’s tournament dates coincided with the Honolulu Marathon.  We therefore planned to leave Hamilton a couple of days earlier, thus extending our Christmas break and allowing the coaches to participate in the race.

Martin is a big guy.  At 6’7 and nearly 300lbs, he obviously does not have the prototypical size of a distance runner.  I guess that over the years, a bit of my love of running has rubbed off on him and he decided to take up this wonderful pastime too.  Just over a year ago Martin decided that he would run his first marathon in Honolulu.  In the year leading up to this event, Martin completed two ½ marathons, the Sulphur Springs and Run For The Toad 25K races, and he faithfully followed his marathon training plan designed by his new running coach, Grimsby’s Doug Flis.

A major sponsor of the race is Nike.  Lo and behold, who was there working the Nike gait analysis treadmill and booth?  Clad head-to-toe in Nike apparel, another good friend and training partner Scott Myers was there!  Tough job…almost as tough as mine!  I had not seen Scott since we ran the Iroquois 100-miler in mid-September.  It’s pretty sad that I had to travel to the South Pacific to see my buddy who lives 3 miles from my house in Burlington! 

The Honolulu Marathon is the fourth biggest marathon in North America.  Race day welcomed over 23,000 determined runners (14,000 of which travelled directly from Japan) toeing the start line.  The event began at 5AM in order to get most of the distance covered before the Hawaiian heat sets in.  Martin and I woke up at 3AM in order to ensure we had plenty of time to catch one of the shuttles that transported runners from Waikiki to the start line at the Ala Moana Beach Park a few miles away.  With the largest and loudest fireworks display that I have ever seen before any race, the sea of runners was set off in the dark through the streets of downtown Honolulu towards Waikiki and eventually up Diamond Head Road.

Honolulu Marathon elevation profile

 By the time I had ascended Diamond Head, the sun had risen and it didn’t take long before it got hot and humid.  Unfortunately, this next section was an out-and-back along Kalanianiole Highway with no shelter from the sun’s penetrating rays.  The interesting part about this section however, was encountering all the runners, more specifically the leaders, as they raced to the finish.  Seeing the Kenyan’s glide effortlessly along the pavement was awe-inspiring.  I was at about the halfway mark and the leaders had a mere 5-6 miles to go!  On my return trip, I crossed Martin at about this same spot on the course.  Although there were thousands upon thousands of runners, Martin’s 6’7 frame towered over the countless Japanese runners surrounding him.  When he forwarded some race photos to his running club friends, they jokingly baptized him with a new nickname.  Some now referred to him as Godzilla!

Hawaii is one of my favorite places in the world, and the Honolulu Marathon provided some spectacular views of this island paradise.  The last couple of miles were the most scenic as we were treated to some beautiful coastal vistas with beaches on one side and mountains on the other.  The fact that the final miles were also run downhill made this section even more enjoyable…as pleasurable as the late miles of a marathon can be I suppose!  

The finish is along this stretch in Waikiki

 I crossed the finish line in 4:11:32 (chip time).  This was my second marathon in Hawaii.  My first Hawaiian race was the 2006 Kilauea Volcano Marathon which has since been cancelled over “concern and desire to protect the environment and cultural resources of the park”.  Martin’s time of 6:03:59 was about 30 minutes slower than he had anticipated, but considering the conditions and a nagging leg cramp at mile 18, he was nevertheless extremely pleased with his first marathon and wore his finisher’s t-shirt proudly.

Since the marathon was early in the trip, we both recovered fast enough to allow us to enjoy the “must-do” tourist attractions such as hiking in the Valley of the Rainbows, snorkeling in Hanauma Bay and climbing the dormant crater of Diamond Head volcano.  Oh yeah, we also had a basketball tournament to coach!  After a slow start with an exhibition loss to St. Georges of British Columbia, our Jaguars got into a groove and progressively got stronger as the tournament went on.  We followed up the loss with back-to-back wins over two Hawaiian schools.  First we beat Punahou (President Obama’s former team) by 8 points, and then easily defeated Marydale High School by more than 30 points.  These wins put us in the finals against a third Hawaiian team, Millilani High.  This was an extremely exciting game as both teams like to play at a fast pace.  We were down by 9 points at the half but battled back and eventually won 85-79 in a high-scoring, high-octane game!  This win was particularly special as the group we had with us wasn’t our full squad and the players who usually don’t play many minutes had a chance to prove themselves with their hard work and determination.  It was certainly a Monumental Effort by these young athletes!

Jaguars 2009 Palama Champs

 The entire team has agreed to wear our Hawaiian gear:  t-shirts or Hula shirts, sandals, board shorts, shell leis, along with our gold medals on our first day back at school.  This will undoubtedly help us kick-start our fundraising for our return to Hawaii, and inevitably another running of the Honolulu Marathon, in December 2011.

“Show me a hero, and I will write you a tragedy.” – F. Scott Fitzgerald

I confess.  I’m a surfer wannabe.  As a teenager I started wearing Ocean Pacific clothing even though I had never even seen an ocean let alone ridden her waves.  I currently have a collection of Quicksilver t-shirts and board shorts, and I wear Sanuk shoes everywhere I go.  I have never owned a skateboard nor have I ever tried snowboarding.  On the cusp of turning 40 years old, I have only set foot on an actual surfboard twice in my life – once in Noosa, Australia and more recently in Tofino, British Columbia – yet I claim to love this sport.

I have been fortunate to visit the magical Hawaiian Islands on several occasions.  Arguably the Mecca of surfing, I have never built up the courage to rent a board and hang ten on any of these trips!  Every other year the basketball team, which I help coach, travels to Hawaii for the Palama Settlement Christmas Classic Tournament.  Each time we cruise Kalakaua Avenue in Waikiki upon our arrival for the mandatory picture at Duke Kahanamoku’s statue.  We always have one team dinner at Duke’s Restaurant and Barefoot Bar and a trip to Sunset Beach on the North Shore is a must.  Being back in the Aloha State last week inspired me to share the ME stories of two larger-than-life Hawaiian heroes.

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  Hawaiians feel this statue is wrong as a true surfer would never turn his back to the ocean

One of Hawaii’s most compelling and beloved heroes is Duke Paoa Kahanamoku.  Born in Honolulu in 1890, Duke is known as “Hawaii’s Greatest Athlete and Ambassador of Aloha”.  His competitive swimming career spanned over 20 years.  During this time he amassed six Olympic medals (three gold, two silvers and one bronze) for the United States at four different games (Stockholm in 1912, Antwerp in 1920, Paris in 1924 and Los Angeles in 1932).  Unfortunately for Duke, the 1916 Berlin Olympics were cancelled due to World War I.  Duke Kahanamoku’s last Olympic hardware was a bronze medal as a 42-year old member of the U.S. Water Polo team.  Along the way Duke set countless world records at different distances and mentored the young Johnny Weissmuller who went on to win an incredible 36 national swimming titles.

Duke is also credited for catapulting the sport of surfing to new heights globally.  Surfing was not a competitive sport during his era, but Duke travelled the World sharing his knowledge and grace to all.  He taught Aussies how to shape a board.  He visited New Zealand where he reintroduced surfing to the Maori and wowed the crowds in California (where he would later relocate) while riding his long board.  In 1917 it is recorded that Duke rode a monster wave for over a mile at Waikiki, likely the longest ride in modern times.

Picture from the 1924 Paris Olympics

Since amateur athletes were not paid for competing and endorsement deals did not exist, Duke continually worked to earn a living shining shoes, delivering newspapers or just about anything to make some money.  In 1922 Duke moved to California and began his acting career.  In all, Duke appeared in over 30 movies including The Wake of the Red Witch starring another famous “Duke,” John Wayne.  Although Duke Kahanamoku had a tall, handsome and athletic build, he was subjected to stereotypical roles.  With his dark Hawaiian skin, Kahanamoku was also the victim of racism as he was perceived as African-American by some.  In between movie roles, Duke paid the bills by working as a lifeguard or mechanic in Los Angeles.  In 1925 as Duke and his friends were surfing, they witnessed a 40-foot ship capsize and sprung into action.  Duke paddled his board out to the ship on three trips and saved a total of eight lives.  The police report stated: “The Duke’s performance was the most superhuman rescue act…Many more would have drowned, but for the quick action of the Hawaiian swimmer”.

At the end of his swimming and acting career, Duke returned to his simple life in Hawaii with his wife Nadine.  He eventually was elected to public office for the City and County of Honolulu Sheriff’s Office and held that position for 26 years.  Later in life he served as Hawaii’s official Ambassador of Good Will and regularly welcomed stars and dignitaries as they landed in Honolulu.  The Kahanamoku couple even gave the Queen Mother hula dancing lessons when she visited the Islands.

Duke Paoa Kahanamoku died at the age of 77 when he collapsed on the Waikiki Yacht Club.  A Hall of Fame inductee into:  The Swimming Hall of Fame, The Surfing Hall of Fame and the U.S Olympic Hall of Fame; Duke Kahanamoku will forever be remembered as one of Hawaii’s greatest citizens.

Another humble surfer who captured the hearts of the Hawaiian people was Eddie Aikau (pronounced: eye-cow).  On my first visit to O’ahu I noticed “Eddie would go” posters and t-shirts in several shops.  I was intrigued and needed to learn more about this surfer dude, so I purchased Stuart Holmes Coleman’s book on the life of Eddie Aikau.  This biography spoke to my surfer wannabe persona and I instantly became a fan of Eddie’s.

Eddie Would Go - The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero

As a youngster the ocean was Eddie’s playground.  Of the six Aikau siblings Eddie was the first to start surfing.  In the late 1950’s, as O’ahu was becoming a crucial economic center, Pops Aikau decided to pack up his family and their few belongings and move to Honolulu in hopes of making more money to support his family. It was in Honolulu where Eddie honed his surfing skills but the waves of the South Shore just weren’t cutting it for him.  After seeing a new surfing movie by cinematographer Bud Browne, Eddie was captivated by the footage of the big waves on the island’s North Shore and became determined to ride the biggest waves possible.  With his long bright red fiberglass and Styrofoam board, Eddie trekked regularly to the North Shore to do battle with some of the most impressive waves in Hawaii.

Before long Eddie made a name for himself as a fearless rider and began earning a living competing in surfing competition around the World.  Eddie also became the first lifeguard at Waimea Bay and saved hundreds of lives over the years.  Many inexperienced riders would test their mettle against the treacherous waters on the North Shore, but without knowledge of the currents and riptides many of these over-zealous surfers found their way back to the beach, thanks only to Eddie and his bravery.

Eddie aboard the Hokule'a

However, Eddie’s most memorable act of bravery would sadly be his last.  The Polynesian Voyaging Society was preparing its second voyage in the traditional sailing canoe Hokule’a.  The maiden voyage from Tahiti to Hawaii was a success and Eddie wanted to embrace his roots and take part in the return voyage back to Tahiti.  Only a few short hours from setting sail the Hokule’a capsized.  Eddie Aikau believed that he could paddle his board back to safety in order to get help for the rest of the crew; however the captain of the Hokule’a insisted that they all remain together.  After several hours of bobbing in the frigid waters and 10-foot swells, Eddie tried once again to convince Captain Lyman.  After much debate with the other members of the crew, a decision was finally made:  Eddie would go.  The decision went against the rule to never leave the ship, but they felt it was their only chance at being rescued.  They were approximately twenty miles from Lana’i in rough waters, when Eddie calmly paddled away on his surfboard.  Less than an hour later a C-130 plane flew over the capsized Hokule’a ship and the crew was rescued.  Eddie’s body was never found.

Years later, Eddie’s younger brother Clyde won the first annual Quicksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Contest.  Nearing the end of the final heat, Clyde paddled out further than his competitors to catch the biggest wave possible.  This courageous decision earned him the points necessary to surpass his nearest adversary.  As he paddled out, Clyde had noticed large turtles in the ocean.  The turtles’ playfulness reminded him of Eddie and something was telling Clyde to follow them out beyond the lineup of surfers.  Clyde believes that one of the turtles was the guiding spirit of Eddie and together they won that championship.

Mele Kalikimaka!

In anticipation of the Honolulu Marathon that I will be running on December 13th, I revisited this race report that has recently appeared in the 50 States Marathon Club newsletter.  In 2006, I had the pleasure of competing in the Volcano Marathon in Hawaii.

Although the Kilauea Volcano, the World’s most active volcano, continues to spill lava from its cones of Pu`u `O`o onto Hawaiian soil and into the Pacific Ocean as it has continually since 1983, the marathon that runs in and around its park has been cancelled.  A  press release on the Volcano Arts Center website (http://www.volcanoartcenter.org/) cites that “Sulfur dioxide gas and ash from the ongoing eruption continues to inundate several miles of the former race routes” and “concern and desire to protect the environment and cultural resources of the park” as factors for the cancellation and therefore deemed that the race was no longer feasible.

I hope this post will allow former finishers from the past 26 years of the Kilauea Volcano Marathon to reminisce about this gem.  To runners who were not fortunate to experience this race, may this account encourage you to seek-out and support those obscure and low-key events.

“Ultra-esque” Volcano Marathon

Having completed over 30 ultra marathons, I decided it was time to attempt my FIRST standard 26.2 mile marathon.  An important question remained:  Which marathon would be my inaugural one?

I was drawn to ultras in 2000 when a friend suggested that I run the Sulphur Springs 50K race in Dundas, Ontario instead of a marathon.  Although it was an epic struggle, I was hooked!  After running that first ultra, the thought of running a crowded marathon along city streets did not appeal to me.

In April, my wife Joanne and I booked our summer vacation: a trip to Hawaii.  A Google search revealed that during our stay, a marathon was being held approximately two hours away from our resort.  The Kilauea Volcano Marathon’s website billed this event as “one of the World’s toughest measured marathon”.  The race has a strict limit of 225 runners, suggests entrants have significant trail running experience and even recommends that runners wear protective clothing to reduce the chance of injury.  I certainly was not going to qualify for Boston, but it appeared that I had found my marathon.

We arrived on Hawaii’s Big Island on Monday July 24^th 2006, five days before the race.  Tuesday’s front-page headline in the Honolulu Advertiser read:  “HURRICAN DANIEL HEADS TOWARDS HAWAII”.  The storm was some 800 miles off the coast and was expected to hit the Big Island sometime late Friday or early Saturday morning…just in time for the race!  GREAT!  I had already run 11+ hours in the pouring rain earlier in the year at the Bull Run Run 50-miler, but I was not willing to tackle any distance in a hurricane!  Much to our delight, Daniel was downgraded to a tropical storm, then a tropical depression, and eventually forecasters announced that remnants of Daniel would only bring isolated showers to the Island late in the week.  Relieved, we spent the next couple of days enjoying the sites of the Kona Coast before loading up our rental car and heading to Hawaii’s Volcanoes National Park.

After checking-in at the race headquarters and fuelling up at the carbo-load dinner buffet (featuring several types of pastas, meats, salads, Mahi-mahi fish and desserts) we retired to our studio cottage bed & breakfast for some much needed sleep.  Unfortunately, heavy rains pounded the metal roof of our cottage all night and not much sleep was had.  The marathon started at 6 AM, so we were up early for breakfast and other pre-race rituals.

The day began cold, gray, wet and miserable.  A light drizzle fell upon the 135 starters.  Then at 6 AM sharp, the starter gun was fired and the runners left the starting line.  A couple of minutes later, the sun slowly found its way through the clouds and it did not take long to warm up.

The start of the race at Volcano Park Visitors Center sits at 4078 feet above sea level.  The first mile of the race follows the park roads before entering the Ka’u Desert trail.  That’s right, DESERT!  The Kilauea Volcano, the World’s most active volcano, is surrounded by a desert and the first 13 miles runners must circle the volcano through the desert…and there is NO trail!  This section was somewhat surreal.  I felt as though I could be running on the moon (minus the weightlessness of course) on a combination of hardened lava rocks, deep and soft black sand, and crunchy charcoal.  I was expecting the lava to crack open and swallow me up at any moment.  Since there is noticeable trail, runners navigated their way from one tiny yellow flag to the next through this barren land.  Soon runners disappeared on the horizon and the sun’s glare made it difficult to spot the flags.  On several occasions I was 20 or 30 feet off course and had to zigzag back towards the “trail”.   Aid station volunteers along this section had hiked in and camped in the desert (no rain there, just lots of wind they said) the night before.

Volcano crater

We had now dropped over 1000 feet, although it really did not feel like we were going downhill.  At the mid-way mark, we were finally out of the desert, but we had to climb back up to the top of the volcano.  The next five miles ran along paved park roads (Chain of Craters Road) and basically all of it was uphill, but very scenic.  We were surrounded by hardened lava from past eruptions.

At mile 18 we entered another trail, this one an unpaved, grassy road called the Escape Road, in a humid rain forest.  Only on the Big Island of Hawaii can you find yourself in the desert and in the rain forest separated by only a few miles.  Climate and vegetation vary greatly in this corner of the World.  Four miles and roughly 800 feet later, we began the last leg of the race.  Since I had walked a lot during the previous uphill section, I was ready to do a bit of running.  The Crater Rim Trail is narrow and steep and circles the crater whose floor is 300 feet below the rim and two and a half miles across.  We ran past several natural steam vents, through the military camp and finally to the finish where runners received their finishers t-shirts and medals.

Vince on Escape Road

My time of 5 hours 17 minutes and 30 seconds placed me once again in the middle-of-the-pack at 65^th out of 121 finishers.  This time resembles several of my recent 50K trail times, such as The Ground Hog Fall 50K in Punxatawney, Pennsylvania and the Run for the Toad 50K in Paris, Ontario.  Several factors contributed to the difficulty of this race.  The elevation change, the heat radiating from the lava rocks, the humidity in the rain forest and the varied terrain make this marathon unlike any.  The Kilauea Volcano Marathon is not ultra-long, but certainly ultra-tough.

Minutes after my finish, the skies clouded over and the heavy rains hammered the island for the remainder of the day and night.  The rest of the week however, we were treated to clear skies and temperatures in the mid 80’s.

Aloha and Mahalo!

The Mohican 100 Trail Run

As the 2009 running season winds down, most runners start to ponder their racing schedule for 2010.  Personally, my choice of future events is pending on the results of the Western States 100 lottery to be held on December 5^th.  If my name is one of the roughly 300 to be drawn from the nearly 2000 applicants, I will need to determine which races will offer the soundest preparation for this event which will most certainly require a Monumental Effort.

The odds of getting a ticket to this race are slim; therefore the vast majority of applicants will start to explore “Plan B” minutes after the lottery results have been posted.  There are so many great races that I aspire to run, so I will not be entirely disappointed if I am not selected.  It might even be a blessing in disguise as participating in Western States is a considerable expense, not to mention the training challenges Easterners face preparing for 18,000 feet of elevation gain to go along with 22,000 feet of descent.

If you are an East-Coast ultra runner looking for an excellent 100-miler, allow me to recommend the Mohican Trail 100.  I was introduced to the world of 100-milers in June 2000 when I crewed and paced for friends who attempted this race, and I have returned to Loudonville, Ohio seven more times since then to either test my mettle against the course or offer support to another brave soul.

Why this regular pilgrimage to the Mohican Forest in mid-June?  Without a doubt, the Mohican is special to me because it marked my first attempt and successful completion of a race of this distance.  Heck, I even got the race’s logo tattooed to my shoulder as a reminder of how important this accomplishment was to me and it also serves as my motivation to continue running.   Over the course of my many visits to Central Ohio, I have also had the pleasure of sharing the trails with some fantastic people and forged some friendships along the way.  People such as Ron & Kathy, Mark & Stephen, Fred, Tanya, Connie and the late Regis have made my experiences at the Mo special.  Anyone who has run this race will certainly have had the pleasure of meeting Colleen.  The official reporter for the Mohican 100, Colleen is omnipresent throughout the day and night, clad in purple attire, armed with a pad and pencil, always in search of yet another interesting yarn to spin.  Colleen has also been known to send personalized congratulatory cards and pictures to first time finishers of the race.

Scott (center) finishes the Mo in 2009, with pacers Shep & Vince

As for the course itself, the Mohican 100 run offers challenging and scenic trails with some short country road sections in the early and late miles.   At the Mohican runners will meet some incredible aid-station volunteers at interesting landmarks.  These include the Fire Tower (where some runners have been known to ascent the 100+ steps during the race), Covered Bridge, Bridle Staging Area and Rock Point.   Runners will encounter Little Lyons Falls, a crossing of the Mohican River, the quad-busting Big Hill near the finish, and will be treated to a spectacular show by the millions of fireflies during the night portion of the run.  Furthermore, as the Mohican is usually near the summer solstice, the race is held on one of the longest days of the year thus reducing the amount of time spent running in the dark.  All finishers are recognized at the awards ceremony and each will receive their belt buckles.  I will not be returning to the Mohican in 2010, but I will certainly run this race again in the future.